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WHICH BALSA STRIPER DO YOU USE AND WHY? (Read 15561 times)
Reply #36 - Jun 12th, 2017 at 7:05pm

Firefly   Offline

Stick & Tissue
Alabama

Posts: 4
 
Since most of it came out of my"Might Use That Someday" box, the price was right too. Ten Logan or C&H Mat cutting blades are around $6. The spacers support the rectangular blade closely. It works great!
 
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Reply #35 - Jun 12th, 2017 at 6:47pm

bigrip74   Offline
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Austin, Texas

Posts: 5073
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Nice looking tool you have there.

Bob
 

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!
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Reply #34 - Jun 12th, 2017 at 6:44pm

Firefly   Offline

Stick & Tissue
Alabama

Posts: 4
 
I needed a device for cutting Basswood also known as Linden because I gave up on 1/16 Balsa sticks. Basswood is about as light as Balsa but has a different grain structure that is more difficult to strip. I made my own strip cutter out of Aluminum angle and 1/16 Aluminum strip spacers. The key is the C&H 1200 or Logan 270 Mat cutting blade available from Amazon. Unlike my trusty Master Airscrew cutter, this blade does not flex or wander.
 

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Reply #33 - Aug 7th, 2016 at 9:11am

staubkorb   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Germany

Posts: 1234
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Another issue with the Master Airscrew unit (IMHO) is the blade rake.  The stock blade (X-Acto #11) sits too straight, and, due to its thickness results in the wood splitting ahead of the "cut" - noticeable in wood generally over 1/16th (1.6mm).

I switched to #11 scalpel blades (the ones that fit the "small" handle).  These are physically smaller, thinner and MUCH sharper than any "hobby" class #11 blades and allow a few more degrees of rake in the holder.  The blade slices much better and doesn't compress the wood a much (less chance of bowing).

I've had mine for nearly 50 years now... Roll Eyes Shocked
 

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Reply #32 - Aug 6th, 2016 at 4:24pm

RJ   Offline
Full Member
I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Elizabeth City, NC

Posts: 107
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I'll try using a 6-32 nut.  Thanks for the tip!
 
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Reply #31 - Aug 6th, 2016 at 5:43am

faif2d   Offline

Stick & Tissue
texas

Posts: 28
 
On the master airscrew if you add a 6-32 nut on the outside of the knob to take the slop out of the threads it will work much better.  I also sanded off the draft on the fence portion of the guide and that helped a lot as well.
 
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Reply #30 - Oct 31st, 2015 at 12:40am

NcGunny   Offline
Senior Member
GO PANTHERS!
NY

Posts: 759
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My buddy gave me a new #2 Xacto and a bunch of blades to go with it. I think if the MA could accept these it might help with the blade deflection.So far I have found the #2 blades to be worse with the factory sharpness than #11. I spent 1 minute with a blade on a stone and it turned it razor sharpness.
 
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Reply #29 - Oct 29th, 2015 at 1:01pm

Colonel Manfred von Holstein   Offline
Senior Member
Indianapolis, IN

Posts: 283
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I set the depth on the MA stripper to slightly more than half the thickness of the piece I'm stripping. Run your piece thru, flip it, run it thru again to complete the cut. Block sand the edge on your sheet and strip another. You only reset the depth for thicker material. The blade point never touches your cutting mat so it stays sharp. I also keep my finger on the adjustment knob to preload the slide to take up any slop in the threads.It's not an ideal situation but it makes the most of a cheap stripper.
 

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Reply #28 - Oct 28th, 2015 at 2:00pm

NcGunny   Offline
Senior Member
GO PANTHERS!
NY

Posts: 759
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I had guys before suggesting when I was having trouble with the MA to make several different depth passes ..sounds logical but.... Every passes means loosening and tightening the blade... Every pass also raises the chance for the horrid blade wander. Maybe the older models are built different? But mine is all a injection molded plastic body and the threaded holes dont even have a metal insert. They just thread the plastic. But it does work for contest grade stuff very well.
 
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Reply #27 - Oct 28th, 2015 at 9:54am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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On the McLeod stripper the tip of the blade is anchored in the base in a narrow hole that fits the blade.  Keeping the blade vertical and from wandering.  Make the harder balsa a bit tougher to keep against the fence.
Sky9pilot
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #26 - Oct 28th, 2015 at 4:53am
RJ   Ex Member

 
From my readings, I know that others are similarly dissatisfied with the MA, and I was not happy with it as a stand alone. Rather than chuck it, I decided to mount it as shown, and see if I could get it to work to my satisfaction. So far so good for what I have been using it for.

If I run across problems (threads stripping, blade wandering, ...) I'll be sure to let all know. I would like to have a vertical adjustment, and a more precise horizontal adjustment, but as long as it works, I'll be happy. Smiley

Richard
 
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Reply #25 - Oct 28th, 2015 at 1:30am

NcGunny   Offline
Senior Member
GO PANTHERS!
NY

Posts: 759
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Those strippers are nice. I just cant justify spending that much money on a wood stripper..lol.
 
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Reply #24 - Oct 27th, 2015 at 9:17pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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I got this "New McLeod" balsa stripper after winning a contest.  It is normally way above my budget, but is an outstanding balsa stripper.  The trick was using a sanding block as a push tool for moving the balsa through the stripper.

I had great success using this stripper but sometimes the local hobby shop balsa is so hard that I've had trouble with keeping the balsa against the fence as it is pushed through the stripper!  Live and learn. Gotta watch the grain in the sheets.

Sky9pilot
 

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If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #23 - Oct 27th, 2015 at 6:45pm

NcGunny   Offline
Senior Member
GO PANTHERS!
NY

Posts: 759
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I find the Master stripper to be pretty much worthless most of the time. Its okay if you are using select grade premium wood. Imho I think the MA would be better if it had a adjustment for the depth of cut instead of width.Face it..the thing is all plastic and if you are loosening and tightening the blade keeper alot,its gunna strip out. I use a hardwood block of wood with shims and single edge razor blades that I have resharpened. I bought 4 boxes and took a afternoon to sharpen them all. The single blade cutter doesnt seem to get the blade deflection like the MA does. Even with the premium new #11 Xacto blades it still is so..so
 
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Reply #22 - Oct 27th, 2015 at 3:23pm
RJ   Ex Member

 
Thank you! It makes stripping balsa so much easier, dare I say, fun? Smiley
 
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