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Balsa Stripper Upgrade (Read 850 times)
Reply #3 - Nov 28th, 2017 at 3:00pm

New Builder   Offline
Senior Member
Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 278
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This is an update to this post. I have conquered the Master Airscrew balsa stripper. Bob showed me some posts for the stripper and I took my current tool (as seen in the early part of this post) and glued my stripper to the board in the same way as it shows in the pictures except keep it near the end of the board to allow more support for wood entering the blade. Then I took one screw of the blade retention strap out, swung it aside and exposed the screw that runs through the body of the stripper. Take hold of the knob at the rear of the stripper and with a screwdriver, turn the screw slightly clockwise until you feel some drag on the knob. This takes the slop out of the adjustment mechanism and now it will hold any size you want to dial in. I use a #11 Xacto blade set to cut half way thru a 1/32 piece. This allows you to move the distance of the blade from the fence. Works with even my hardest "C" grain. Just another note, I'm left handed so you will want to reverse the blade and glue the stripper to the left end of the board, if your right handed of course. Just another thought. This mod might require that the whole unit be clamped to a work surface to allow using both hands to guide the balsa through the cutter. Works for me either way but for longer cuts I like to use both hands to guide the balsa thru the cutter. Helps keep the wood tight to the fence.
« Last Edit: Nov 29th, 2017 at 8:36am by New Builder »  
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Reply #2 - Mar 8th, 2017 at 2:30pm

New Builder   Offline
Senior Member
Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 278
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Brian - This device is based on one I use in my wood shop to slice veneer into thin strips. As I said in the original post, getting the guide straight is the key to success. Originally I had planned to purchase 4 strippers and glue them into place for 1/32, 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8 but decided to skip it and use the one stripper making test cuts for the desired width. I make sure the blade is set to cut 1/32 half way through, turn the piece end-for-end and finish the cut. You definitely want to take care of the tool. Just another thought, cutting "C" grain the scalpel blade wants to deflect into the grain so cut slowly.
Mike
 
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Reply #1 - Mar 7th, 2017 at 2:59pm

BrianH   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!

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That's a good idea, think I'll make one.
 
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Jan 26th, 2017 at 9:54am

New Builder   Offline
Senior Member
Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 278
****
 
I have been having difficulty getting my Master Airscrew balsa stripper to cut evenly throughout, was getting wider strips at the beginning than the end. I cured this problem with the little tool in the pictures. It is a piece of 1/4 x 4 x 24 basswood with a piece of 1/4 x 1/4 x 24 basswood glued on. The space for the cutter body is 1" in and is exactly enough room for the tool. Getting the 1/4 square straight is the key to success here. The Airscrew cutter is then set to be over the square stock and adjusted to the width needed. Also set the cutter blade to just short of cutting the strip off and turn the strip end for end and complete the cut. Once you have a straight edge on the piece to be cut, you will have a straight edge always after that.
 

Stripper_Overall.jpg (89 KB | 27 )
Stripper_Overall.jpg
Stripper_Closeup.jpg (89 KB | 14 )
Stripper_Closeup.jpg
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