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Cracked tissue (Read 616 times)
Reply #11 - Feb 21st, 2017 at 10:10am

Lionel   Offline

Umkomaas, South Africa

Posts: 29
 
The Rustoleum may be the cause, what duration between coats did you leave? I have had Rustoleum do the cracking thing as it was not cured before spraying the second coat, the problem is that it is an enamel paint with a lacquer based reducer in it for spraying, if you spray over the not quite set paint the reducer (thinner) in the paint make the last coat crack.

The instructions on the can say recoats to be done within 1 hour or after 48 hours, I have even had problems after 48 hours as the rustoleum has not dried, this is when we have cold damp weather and then it takes a good 4 to 5 days to cure before I could recoat.
 

Model aircraft: The only sport where dope is not only legal, but often recommended.
My workshop is like a time machine, I go in for 5 minutes and come out 3 hours later.
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Reply #10 - Feb 19th, 2017 at 9:32pm

North of South   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!

Posts: 28
 
Kit was a laser cut. I applied tissue dry on tail and wings, wet method on fuse in 2 pieces. Straightened out the warp, applied a patch. Touched up the paint as a decal will cover the area. Going to be a flyer, how much weight am I adding by painting?
 
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Reply #9 - Feb 19th, 2017 at 7:46am

staubkorb   Offline
Senior Member
Stick & Tissue
Germany

Posts: 1126
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To be truthful, there is not enough info to give any kind of meaningful opinion to the original question.

What is the aircraft in question?  Rubber, electric or "wet" powered?

The Guillow's tissue...
How old is the kit (die crunched or the newer lasered)?  The OLD stuff (die crunch days) did not have a definite "grain" and very little shrinkage - even after a thorough soaking - but holds up well.  I have no idea what is now put in the boxes.

AeroGloss dope...
Definitely not the best stuff to use on a lightweight structure.  Never stops shrinking and takes a LONG time to fully cure (see beginning of sentence).  TWO coats (brushed or sprayed?) and sanded between coats (KEYWORD = sanded). Thinned?  AeroGloss also states not to use any kind of "foreign" products for top coating (or it used to state so).

Rustoleum...
good stuff when used on the right base.  Relative slow drying (older stuff had some sort of fish oil in it as a retarder/plastisizer).  FOUR coats (= lots of weight).

Weight not an issue if the model in question is for display.

Getting back to the KEYWORD...
By sanding the surface, you might have damaged the tissue (it doesn't take much), and the shrinking properties of the AG did the rest - or you may have bumped the part, causing enough stress to cause the split.  Is the damage near a stringer or rib?

There is also no mention about the time-span for the painting process.  There needs to be adequate time between coats for the solvents to "gas" off (NO more odor) - especially between the different products.

A photo of the damaged area would be helpful.
 

WWWoFF
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Reply #8 - Feb 18th, 2017 at 10:38pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 7660
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I usually tear the tissue at the corner of the sheet.  Usually get a pretty straight tear with the grain.  If it tears with any unevenness I figure that the tear is cross grain.

I tend to try and cover the fuselage in one sheet (wet) if the fuselage is not too curved.  But against most accepted procedure, I use the grain running from the dorsal to the ventral rather than the nose to the tail.  When it shrinks up I tend to get a smoother fuselage with less wrinkles.  Just my personal preference.

Good luck with you stab.  Will you strip and recover or try steam and repin the stab to the building board?
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #7 - Feb 18th, 2017 at 3:48pm

North of South   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!

Posts: 28
 
I believe the grain was vertical, I have a hard time determining which direction the grain runs in Guillows tissue.
 
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Reply #6 - Feb 18th, 2017 at 3:40pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 7660
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Was the grain of the tissue running root to tip or leading edge to trailing edge? This can make a difference as well.
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #5 - Feb 18th, 2017 at 11:56am

North of South   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!

Posts: 28
 
I finished the Typhoon the same way less than a week earlier with no problems. One further note is the stab warped with the crack being on the tension side.
 
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Reply #4 - Feb 18th, 2017 at 11:19am

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 7660
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ian said what I was thinking.  Problem between the Rustolium and the dope possibly. 
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #3 - Feb 17th, 2017 at 9:50pm

pb_guy   Offline
Senior Member
So I'm just a kid at heart.
Youbou, BC, Vancouver Island

Posts: 624
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Reply #2 - Feb 17th, 2017 at 2:27pm

North of South   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!

Posts: 28
 
Tissue was supplied with the Guillows kit.
 
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Reply #1 - Feb 17th, 2017 at 1:53pm

pb_guy   Offline
Senior Member
So I'm just a kid at heart.
Youbou, BC, Vancouver Island

Posts: 624
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The problem seems to be related to the Rustoleum. It might also be related to the tissue. Was it a dollar store tissue? The shrinking might have brought it to the breaking point, and the slow-drying Rustoleum might have left the tissue "wet" enough to tear during one of the "drying and re-shrinking" processes.
Just a thought, ian
 
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Feb 17th, 2017 at 11:38am

North of South   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!

Posts: 28
 
I used a glue stick to apply the tissue dry, misted it dried nice and tight. I applied two coats of aero gloss clear dope, sanded with 400 grit. Then I misted 4 coats of Rustoleum satin (stuff doesn't dry very well) after drying over night the tissue on the stabilizer has a crack in it and is beginning to curl a bit. What caused this? How should I repair it?
 
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