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Assembly Fixture (Read 891 times)
Reply #11 - Oct 29th, 2017 at 3:01pm

Bargle   Offline
Full Member
Oh crumbs
East Tennessee

Posts: 114
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Belated thanks to New Builder and MKelly. I'll probably build one next spring.
 

Sure it's a wrinkly mess, but it flies.
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Reply #10 - Sep 13th, 2017 at 8:55am

New Builder   Offline
Senior Member
Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 260
****
 
Wow - I never thought this simple little tool would generate this much attention. I make these tools to fill a need for me and if they can be helpful to others, I'm a very happy guy. I truly cannot get into the making of another one and it is not hard to do. I used stock materials from Lowes and Michaels and the "T" track that I posted the mfg. number, so no magic there, just glued it together and did some cutting and you have one. As to royalties, don't need those, all too happy to help out when ever and where ever I can.
BTW - Outbound shipping from Canada would be about $75.00
Mike
 
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Reply #9 - Sep 9th, 2017 at 4:43pm

bigrip74   Offline
Global Moderator
What did l do this time!
Austin, Texas

Posts: 5051
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OK! i would put it to NEWBUILDER then.

Bob
 

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!
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Reply #8 - Sep 9th, 2017 at 4:35pm

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 252
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Thanks Bob, but that'd cut way too much into building time!  Besides, I'd have to pay royalties to NewBuilder...

Cheers,

Mike
 
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Reply #7 - Sep 8th, 2017 at 7:30pm

bigrip74   Offline
Global Moderator
What did l do this time!
Austin, Texas

Posts: 5051
****
 
Mike if you ever wanted to manufacture these. I will buy one.

Bob
 

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!
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Reply #6 - Aug 31st, 2017 at 10:06pm

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 252
****
 
Here you go, Bargle.  Fuselage horizontal in jig to install the right side formers, then vertical in jig to install the side keels and stringers.  For this fuselage, due to the stepped keel at the nose, it worked best to install the fuselage upside down and do the keels and lower stringers first.  I'll flip the frame to do the topside stringers, then pull it off the jig to get the last stringers above the keel on each side.

For next time I'll replace the 1/2" plywood crosspieces with thinner hardwood crosspieces - that will make it easier to do smaller fuselages.

Cheers,

Mike
 
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Reply #5 - Aug 16th, 2017 at 5:24pm

Bargle   Offline
Full Member
Oh crumbs
East Tennessee

Posts: 114
***
 
Be sure to post some pictures of it in use.
 

Sure it's a wrinkly mess, but it flies.
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Reply #4 - Aug 13th, 2017 at 3:37pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 8557
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Mike,
That's a great job on that jig!  Well done! Smiley
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #3 - Aug 13th, 2017 at 2:35pm

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 252
****
 
Got my jig finished today.  It's a bit larger than yours - I went through my plans and figured that I needed a 28" x 9" working area to accommodate the bulk of projects I have under consideration. 

I went with narrower crosspieces (1/2" square to accommodate some plans that have short former spacing - they don't self-align, so I'll need to use a square when setting up the jig.

Now I need to laminate the keels for the Tigercat so I can try it out!

Thanks again for sharing your design,

Mike
 

0813_Fuselage_Jig.JPG (306 KB | 14 )
0813_Fuselage_Jig.JPG
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Reply #2 - Aug 1st, 2017 at 1:30am

bigrip74   Offline
Global Moderator
What did l do this time!
Austin, Texas

Posts: 5051
****
 
NB, thanks Smiley for the photos they help me really understand and I may be able to construct one now.

Bob
 

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!
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Reply #1 - Jul 30th, 2017 at 4:37pm

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 252
****
 
NB, thanks for taking the time to post this, and thanks for the source info on the track material.  I had looked for similar track at the local big box store yesterday without success.

Now to review my plan and kit stash to determine how big mine needs to be...

Thanks again,

Mike
 
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Jul 30th, 2017 at 1:09pm

New Builder   Offline
Senior Member
Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 260
****
 
Greetings All - Here comes the work up, description and photos of my assembly fixture. I had no idea there would be even any interest in this tool when I designed and built it. Like I said, this is in response to a posting I made about converting all my truss fuselage plans to keel type plans and would build a fixture to make the end result possible. So, I'm going to start off with the base and it is simply a piece of 1 x 8 poplar I had in my wood shop. I cut off two pieces for the uprights and glued them to the base as seen in the first photo. This decides the clearance for any future pieces as this is turned over to work on the other side. - see my pic of my Gee Bee vertical stab that just barely made it, plan accordingly.

The next part is the actual assembly fixture and it is built on a piece of 3/16 Birch plywood I got at Michaels. The idea is to have a solid plane to built all the other parts on then open up the middle to allow access. The frame of the fixture is assembled with 3/8 square popular pieces from Lowes or any where else you want to source them. I'm a big fan of simplicity and using these parts eliminates cutting bigger parts down to size (we do enough of that in the modelling process). The only other square part is the 1/2 square piece on the outside of the frame and I did that to use it to align the cross pieces.

The assembly is very straight forward at this point. Glue the 1/2 inch square piece on either long manufactured edge of the plywood (the manufactured edges are usually very straight). Cut the Mini Trak (Kreg Manufacturing P/N KMS7509 from Amazon or Woodcraft) in half so each piece is 24 inches long. It comes with small flat head screws for attaching it. Snug it up tight to the 1/2 inch piece and screw down to the ply. Cut a piece of 3/8 square 24 inches long and glue to the ply snugging it up to the mini trak. Do the same to the other side (except the parts there are all 3/8 square) knowing this will decide the opening for any future fuselage assemblies. The opening in mine is 7-1/2 inches. On the ends I glued 2 3/8 square pieces together and cut to fit between the horizontal rails you just installed. The top is now complete except for cutting out the ply between the rails and you are done. Place the assembly fixture on the base and align fairly square and match drill thru the 2 end pieces into the base and install a dowel in the base only. This allows the top to be inverted and replaced back on the base to work on the other side. I'm well ahead of everybody at this point so I will tackle the crosspieces and their placement and alignment in another installment rather than complicate this any further. Just an note on cutting and gluing; try to make everything as square and solid as possible. The more square the better the cross member will align and work but absolute accuracy is not required, just our customary good workmanship. Hopefully I will have the Gee Bee off the frame and can show how to align and use the frame.

I'm on this site every day so post any questions and I'll be back with answers same day.
 
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