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Guillows PBY-5A Catalina display. (Read 1804 times)
Reply #30 - Jan 13th, 2018 at 6:17pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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LoL... Now that's funny.  I can easily relate being in the doghouse myself.  So much so, I'm thinking of redecorating it.  Great idea about the use of anti-static wipes Tom.  I'll have to keep that in mind when building my next project.  Thank you.
 
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Reply #29 - Jan 11th, 2018 at 5:17am

DAVE Q   Offline
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Tom,
Tried the dryer sheet idea, works great. Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, there will be a short delay in build updates, until I get internet connection hooked up to the doghouse.
Dave.
 
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Reply #28 - Jan 10th, 2018 at 11:03am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Here's a tip on sanding foam.  Rub the piece to be sanded with Anti-static/Anti-Wrinkle Sheets for the clothes dryer. Do this frequently while sanding and it will keep down the particles clinging to you and the work being sanded.... Smiley
Get a couple boxes at the Dollar store so the wifey doesn't get upset when she wonders where they went when she loads the dryer!!!  Don't ask how I know this!!!
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #27 - Jan 10th, 2018 at 6:08am

DAVE Q   Offline
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Pylon is done. Wasn't that bad. I am getting better at this foam idea. Another little trick I learned. Hand carve it somewhat before gluing in place. Cuts down on the mess. This 36 grit sure makes short work of shaping. But, I don't know where all the static comes from. The shavings/particles from shaping, they just won't let go of you. I still have a small fairing above the platform, at the L.E. of the wing. I think I am going to use screws to hold the wing on, and magnets to hold the struts on. Just for ease of working on/finishing. Glue that center section on, and glue the struts and tail on. I think is just going to be awkward as heck to work on from that point on.
 

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Reply #26 - Jan 6th, 2018 at 4:11pm

DAVE Q   Offline
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Skye, That is the best idea I have heard yet. I would love to see you build a PBY.

I cut out the plastic fairings for the empennage to vert stab fairing, and tried to fit them. Same thing, could be worse, could be better. What scares me the most about trying to use the plastic fairings, is they go on after the airplane is covered. It's a little late then to decide, I don't want to use the plastic, and wished I would have used the foam. So, final answer, I'm going with the blue foam idea. Every block I glue in, I learn new tricks. The red arrows show, where I ended up with a notch, where the foam meets the longeron. Once the glue is on, I'll need a little Bondo. Things I have learned so far with this idea. #1, 36 grit, then 80 grit, then 100 grit, makes short work of shaping. #2, use a brush, and only apply a slight skim coat of white glue, where the foam touches the wood. You don't want it oozing out. #3, notch the foam, so it sits on top of the longerons. #4, you don't want to push to hard on your cradle box idea, because you will dent the foam. #5, use a flat 1/4" wide brush, not a round brush, for your final skim coat of glue. So you can force on a nice thin layer of glue. This foam is tedious, but I feel I am getting much better results over the applied plastic fairing idea. To be honest, I am not looking forward to the wing pylon area. But I keep telling myself, when I get these fairings done, fit my landing gear and cockpit. I'm ready for covering.
 

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Reply #25 - Jan 5th, 2018 at 11:15am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Dave,
Good morning.  Have to agree with Tom on the two-tone scheme.  That picture depicting the model of the  PBY in dark sea gray with white undersides really sets it off.  Just for that model, makes me want to go out and buy a PBY kit myself!  Judging from the subtle paneling, the modeler employed what is called "pre-shading."  Using a modeling spray gun with the nozzle set to a very fine, narrow spray that's no wider than say a small marking pen, the modeler "draws" the outlines of panels with the spray gun using a dark color (usually black mixed with dark gray/brown).  After it thoroughly dries, he then opens up the gun to a wide spray pattern (or uses a rattle spray can) & applies a thin coat of the main color overall, but not too thick as to cover up the thin "pre-shaded" lines, but adding just enough color to allow the subtle lines to show through.  With regards to separation of colors, it's really very easy to mask off and paint the different areas.  Some PBYs had very defined lines of demarcations to separate the two colors and others, as Tom observed, had a soft look, and still others had a "wavy" look between the two colors.  I may be wrong here, but I think your reasoning of expressing concern may also include the masking tapes allowing some paint to "leak" under the masked areas and also the risk of peeling off the tissue covering when removing the masking tapes.  Very valid reasons.  This, combined with the ribbed look of the stick-n-tissue method of construction can (and often does) interfere with the masking, and actually fosters the leaking of paint under the mask.  The soft "give" of the tissue also contributes to the masking tapes not being able to firmly adhere down to the surface by preventing the modeler from being able to burnish the tape edges without risk of puncturing the covering. Depending upon your skills and the proper mixture of paints and thinners, you can avoid all the hassles of masking by simply hand-brushing the paints.  It's where the demarcations are located, is when your skills in holding that brush really steady and being able to paint a straight line, comes into fore.
Finally, the method of construction between the hull and the fuselage is interesting.  I'd definitely go with the foam-fill method that you've described and done on other parts of the plane.  From what I can see, it looks great and you have good experience using the foam method which factors very well into your "comfort zone."  You're not alone at all in these areas.  On the S.E.5, I had at least two separate mock fuselages to experiment different painting techniques, as well as stitching, decaling and more.  You're doing great!
 
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Reply #24 - Jan 4th, 2018 at 4:32pm

DAVE Q   Offline
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I just cut out the fairing halves for the forward portion of the wing pylon, from the vac formed plastic parts. Could be worse, could be better. They are both short on the bottom front. And they are not really the correct shape, at the top rear. Maybe this blue foam idea is not that bad after all. Maybe the fuselage on my first attempt, was so flexible, because I was way out at the tail. Maybe at the wing pylon area, I'll be able to better get a grip on it, for some more aggressive sanding and shaping. I have to make this decision before covering.
 
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Reply #23 - Jan 4th, 2018 at 3:31pm

DAVE Q   Offline
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Wing is mostly finished. Started assy and fit of the engine nacelles. They are fit enough, till after the wing gets covered. I am glad I did not angle the nacelles like shown on the plans. The plastic pieces for the aft nacelles would have been least 3/16 short of the leading edge for fitting on the one side. There is going to be some hard areas to cover on this fuselage. Like shown in picture 3, where the hull transitions to the fuselage. I am thinking of using some card stock to cover that concave corner. I also remember reading somewhere, that shaping foam, in difficult areas was a help. Then coat it with white glue, and then you can use dopes, and fillers on top of that. Well, I tried a test piece, and all worked well. Then I tried it on an easy spot on the tail as shown in pic 1 and 2. I don't have the glue coating on it yet. maybe on a larger/stronger RC job, this may be fine. But this delicate Guillows frame, it was very slow and tedious to shape this part. I guess I am going to go back to the plastic fairings from the kit. For the compound curved areas. I just did that Guillows Spirit of St Louis, that had that plastic nose section. That way was also slow and tedious. I had that nose section on and off at least 25 times till I had it fit. Think I am going to finish the gear next, then move onto the card stock idea for picture #3. And then onto the plastic fairings.
 

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Reply #22 - Jan 2nd, 2018 at 5:14pm

DAVE Q   Offline
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Received another PBY book in the mail today. This one is called Consolidated Aircraft Corporation. Just glanced at the pictures quick, and noticed the one attached. It was fun to imagine what it would be like to have that job. I couldn't figure out what that half round thing was on the table, below the airplane in the bottom center of the picture. Then it came to me when I looked below the airplane on the right. It's half of a globe used as the base. Cool idea.
 

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Reply #21 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 11:51am

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Dave,
Go with the two tone grey!!! I think you'll be most happy with that scheme.  As for as the demarcation lines, most of them follow the hull break lines and where they don't you can achieve the look with just masked lines, or a technique where you have a mask that is held off the surface by off set support to allow a soft edge to the paint with a rattle can if you don't have an airbrush.  (You can get a very inexpensive Badger Airbrush, or several others
that controls paint flow external mix
, that can be used for many years.) Here's one similar to my Paasche single action (Master's for around $10 powered by an aerosol can for starters.) Click Here

Here's another technique without using an airbrush: Click Here This technique can be used for a faded edge between the greys with a bit of practice.  Get yourself a sheet of foam board from the Dollar Store and practice on it before going to your model.  Lots of ways to skin a cat! As the old saying goes!
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #20 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 7:57am

DAVE Q   Offline
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Skye, Thanks for the offer, but don't waste any time looking for other schemes. It is down to the 2 tone grey, or the Coast guard schemes. Which boils down to this decision. The two tone grey scheme (which I really want) requires painting skills I don't know if I have. Because the different colors are not masked off from one to another. I guess the military did this to save time and effort, they were just sprayed onto the aircraft. And one color faded into the other. And the coast guard scheme, is more colorful, and easier to paint. Which I like also, but am afraid of, deep down I am always going to regret not doing the two tone grey scheme I have always wanted, (for I don't know, some 20 years now). I have to get by the craft store and get some paints, and try a sample spray, before I make my final decision. I don't have the painting skills to do the picture that I have attached. But this is what I have been carrying around in my head for 20 years now.  Also, I don't really want to get rid of the guns and bombs. The Black Cats were painted black for a reason, to hide in the night. In the reading I have done so far, several times it has been referenced, how ugly they were. So, black is definitely out.
 

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Reply #19 - Dec 31st, 2017 at 5:13pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Dave,
I have to agree with Tom on the choice of color schemes.  The Guillow's model of the month also featured a PBY done up in Coast Guard colors and it turned out great.  I'm right there with you (& probably half the modelers on this site) when it comes to trying to find the right choice of colors that also properly represents the correct aircraft dash number, that particular period of time, and squadron.  The Black Cat scheme sounds great, but I agree with you, it'll turn out too monotonous.  Even P-61 Black Widows tend to become stale, despite the modeler's best efforts of adding red wing walking details, super detailing the cockpits and more.  Black may be good in full sized aircraft, but like everything else being "adjusted" or compromised in the modeling world (like using different airfoils, propellers, not employing the "winkled" look of fabric on the fuselage that we see on  WW I aircraft) black is just one of those colors that doesn't sit well in modeling form.  Just my own humble opinion.  If you'd like, I can try a bit of research on my own and see if I can come up with some color schemes.  Are you "restricted to the dash 5 version?
 
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Reply #18 - Dec 31st, 2017 at 4:32pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Dave,
the indecision on paint schemes is always a challenge.  You're just like all of us we think we know what we want until another scheme pops up and we aren't sure again.  Good luck with your decision.  I have to admit the Coast Guard scheme really pops!!
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #17 - Dec 31st, 2017 at 7:57am

DAVE Q   Offline
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Got the magnets for the wing joints assembled. Fabricated a wing float mechanism well, to try to add little more detail. Have the outboard wing sections shaped and sanded. Thanks for the paint scheme ideas everyone sent. I am starting my usual round and round in my head, for what color to paint it. Just read a fantastic book about the Black Cat Raiders. Would love to do a Black Cat, but worried about it just looking ugly. As long as I wanted to build this kit, I have always wanted the 2 tone grey scheme. But found this Coast Guard scheme online. It is allot more colorful. But I guess it is technically a PBY-6, because it does not have the nose turret. Guess I could change the nose, and make a PBY-6 out of it. I do this with every build, I will change my mind on colors only about 10 times till the time comes.
 

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Reply #16 - Dec 22nd, 2017 at 4:26pm

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
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Hi Dave Q - here are some pics of an eye-catching Catalina color scheme I snipped out of a video.  Hope you don't mind, the pics are not that sharp ...
LWM
Richard
 

OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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