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WACO YMF-5 30" Jim Young/ Manzano. (Read 2263 times)
Reply #47 - Feb 10th, 2018 at 3:34pm

Craig 3   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
West Virginia, USA

Posts: 590
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After curing, I used a small brush and faired in the joints with good old 50/50/50 PVA, H20, and coffee whitener. I did this twice, let it cure, then thinned the "sealer" a bit, painted the whole shebang with it, and sanded it smooth after an overnight dry.
 

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Reply #46 - Feb 10th, 2018 at 3:27pm

Craig 3   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
West Virginia, USA

Posts: 590
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Made some cowl blisters. Took a stick of 3/4" TE, cut it in two & glued it up front-to-front, then sliced out a section out of which I could get the proper contour. Sanded the end to the shape of a blister, sliced it off with a depth-stop in the miter box, lathered, rinsed, repeated. I made about 25 and sorted the best-matched 14.
I wrapped the cowl in 320 sandpaper and contour-sanded them to match. next I wrapped masking tape around the cowl, marked the overlap, and pulled it off again. I measured it, divided that by 15, and starting at one end, laid out tick marks. I put it back on, transferred the tick marks in pencil to the cowl, and glued it up.
Fortunately, cowlings for Jacobs R755 engines have equally-spaced blisters or I'd still be doing math Smiley
 

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Reply #45 - Jan 28th, 2018 at 6:31pm

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
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REAL PLANES HAD ROUND
ENGINES AND TWO WINGS
Windsor, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1440
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Hi Craig - just got this
wild
two and one half minute video from my buddy, master modeller John Oshust.  Pretty darned cool   Smiley   -   rc guy Gernot Bruckmann from Austria - flying inside making his rc plane jump around like a gymnast and dance like a ballerina and deke like Barry Sanders!! , to great classical music -
pretty unbelievable!
  Shocked

http://www.bilibili.com/video/av3702141/

Note the evolution of the rc modeller man at the bottom of the  pic  Wink
LWM
Richard
 

OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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Reply #44 - Jan 27th, 2018 at 9:56pm

Craig 3   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
West Virginia, USA

Posts: 590
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Thanks, Tom & Richard- I went ahead and covered the lower wing. It seems like a shame to paint it, but I reckon I will. I covered it in yellow because, even though it's a YMF, I'm going to do a UPF-7 War Training Service scheme as a tribute to my Grandad who flew those in WWII when he instructed at VPI. The big differences are in the empennage and the flat top wing on the trainer, plus the wider fuse on the civilian version, but the Waco F-Series DNA still shows through.
 

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Reply #43 - Jan 27th, 2018 at 9:07pm

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
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REAL PLANES HAD ROUND
ENGINES AND TWO WINGS
Windsor, Ontario, Canada

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Hi Craig !   Nice to see you again, you ol'
Luddite
!!    Wink    That is quite the involved build on your 30" balsa rc Waco  Shocked  -  so many facets ... very interesting, and it looks like you are nailing everything - not that I have ever built one ... but your rc build sure gets my attention!   Smiley  great tutorial!
LWM
Richard
 

OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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Reply #42 - Jan 27th, 2018 at 7:40pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 9105
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Good looking engine and the rest is looking very nice. 
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #41 - Jan 27th, 2018 at 4:42pm

Craig 3   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
West Virginia, USA

Posts: 590
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Jumping around a little bit- the learning curve for an old Luddite is pretty steep. I'm not sure if I've ever been in the same room with an RC plane before.

Anyway, got my servos, motor, ESC, battery, transmitter, and receiver gathered up, bound, and tested. Starting to put stuff together. There probably won't be a "bones" shot because the wings need covered before the aileron torque tubes and hinges happen.

The plans (and the short kit) just have a flat seven-cylinder piece of ply in the cowling- I couldn't live with that. I know this isn't much of a scale Jacobs R775, but it'll look okay on a flyby!
 

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Reply #40 - Jan 19th, 2018 at 6:07am

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
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REAL PLANES HAD ROUND
ENGINES AND TWO WINGS
Windsor, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1440
****
 
Hi Craig - missed the soldering / strut tutorial  -  Just found it now!!
Right ON
  Smiley   Thanks for explaining it in detail.   I must get good at soldering - it seems there is always Landing Gear to solder up in the kits.  Thanks for all the pics too. Wink
LWM
Richard
 

OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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Reply #39 - Jan 14th, 2018 at 8:21pm

Craig 3   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
West Virginia, USA

Posts: 590
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After a bit of sanding- This model is 1/12 scale, so it's not a tiny pice. As pictured, it goes 2.18g. Not too bad if it'll hold the wing on like I think...
 

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Reply #38 - Jan 14th, 2018 at 7:37pm

Craig 3   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
West Virginia, USA

Posts: 590
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Now for the woodwork part- I did some improvisation here- the plan said "cover with 1/32" balsa" and left me to my own devices. It's what my mentor Bill calls a "builder's kit," and a prototype short kit at that. Oh- and at this point you should have either your modified wing ribs with the eyelets, or a set of gauge blocks with holes in the location of your future wing rib eyelets, prepared. A chunk of quarter-inch balsa with two sharpie-marks into which you can shove the hooks will work fine. You just need them to be precisely spaced.

Step one is to flatten any lumpiness on the solder joints with a fine file or sanding stick. It shouldn't take much, and do it under good light. When you see the first glimmer of copper, stop. You're done with that side.

Now, go to the stash and select the softest 1/32" sheet you have and strip off enough for the covers. Make it a scosche  oversize for finishing. In the case of this one, they needed to finish out at 1/4" wide, so I stripped it to 5/16".

Cut two identical boards to a length that will just fit between the hooks on one leg. Lay one piece on the board, carefully center the leg on it, and burnish the leg into the wood. I used the lid of an upside-down Testors jar for an implement. You may want to do a test piece- the object is to make an impression into the balsa, not shear it in two (again, don't ask...)

OK, now make another one just like that, only impressing the other side of the leg. Since you did the easy side first, you'll notice that you'll have to do some propping here- you can do it over a suitably thick scrap of balsa cut to fit between the hooks, or just shove the hooks into the block. Be sure to put the cover under it first if you use the second system.

Now, burnish again. Make a cup of coffee. Using PVA, paint the two strips thoroughly, on the mating sides. Wait a couple of minutes, and you'll see the strips start to curl a bit, away from the side you just glued. This indicates that the moisture of the glue has further softened the balsa.

Be careful to index the solder-joint ends of the strips over the solder joints, and laminate the wire between the two strips. Make sure the strips are carefully aligned with one another and the wire core is centered. Now, massage the two two strips together, and, whilst drinking coffee, watch a you-tube video of an MKelly trimming flight or two- all the while working back and forth until the glue grabs well. Squeeze hard, especially at the solder joint.

Do the two legs first, the cut and fit the diagonal. and glue it into place. Now pop the whole shebang into your ribs, or gauge blocks, whichever you're using. I know we frown on glue fillets here, but in this case you have my permission- at the diagonal joints. Let them cure long enough to lock the spacing precisely into shape, and voila!- you have a set of interplane struts that will pop right into place and properly locate your upper wing. And, they will, with MINIMAL work, look like scale oval aerodynamic tubing- the one in this picture has had NO sanding to shape. You can trim the ends, add any scale-detail faux clevises or turnbuckles you like, and when you mount them, just secure the hooks into the eyelets with a drop of glue.

On a FF build, this could be adapted to very fine wire or even thread to replace the music wire, or maybe even a bent stationery staple at each end.
 

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Reply #37 - Jan 14th, 2018 at 7:00pm

Craig 3   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
West Virginia, USA

Posts: 590
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I don't know about the rest of you, but as for myself, I approach building struts and mounting upper wings on bipes with a certain amount of trepidation. This one has an interesting system- the construction as presented would naturally be a little heavy for a Rubber FF build, but most of it could be adapted. It would be the berries, and a real time-and-frustration saver, for a static build.

The appropriate wing ribs in the short kit were made of 1/16" ply and include  eyelets into which hooks at the strut ends are locked. The "working" parts of the struts are formed of 1/32" music wire, CAREFULLY bent to shape over the plans, joined into a unit by finely wrapped copper wire, then soldered together.

I'll stress that, at each step in the process, the assembly must be checked against the plan and corrected before progressing.

The music wire may look clean- it isn't. Sand it thoroughly in the area to be joined. You'll need a decent iron that will bring the music wire up to temp for a good "hot" joint- while the fine copper wire will provide some strength, it is more there for alignment and the join of the music wire is the solid part. Use fine acid-core solder or paste flux as you prefer.

Once you have the music wire sanded, wipe it down with alcohol. Pull the copper wire through your alky moistened towel a few times. Wipe the fried chicken leavin's off your fingers while you're at it. Both hands Smiley Now, commence to fly-tying.

If you used, say, 120 grit to sand the music wire and wrap the copper (i used frog-hair-gauge wire stripped from an obsolete printer cord I liberated from  "that" drawer), you'll be surprised how snugly it tightens down. When you have one joint wrapped, check it one last time agains the plan and solder it. That way, you won't have to worry about moving it while you do the other leg.

I'll throw this in now- as you do this, be sure to make a mirror image assembly for the second set. Don't ask ...

You're going for a really clean, minimally loaded, solder joint. The reason will be apparent in the next set of pics.
 

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Reply #36 - Jan 11th, 2018 at 1:06pm

Huey v77   Offline
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of Cleveland Ohio.
Orwell, Ohio

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Craig, it's warm enough to venture out to the garage(55).The prop I'm using on the Stearman is from APC #LP08038SF 8x3.8 SF Slow-Flyer, it acts like a climb prop, if you know what means. Like shifting into a low gear, not for speed. It's 8" in dia. with a 3.8" pitch. Good for a brushless motor, and a plane with lots of drag.

Mark
 
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Reply #35 - Jan 10th, 2018 at 7:45am

MKelly   Offline
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Helotes, TX

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I like it!
 
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Reply #34 - Jan 9th, 2018 at 8:26pm

Craig 3   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
West Virginia, USA

Posts: 590
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Here's a wingtip for Mike Smiley
 

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Reply #33 - Jan 7th, 2018 at 12:50pm

Craig 3   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
West Virginia, USA

Posts: 590
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Well, it's taken the better part of the weekend, but I got half the lower wing framed up. It's a pretty delicate piece of work and needs to be precise and true because the aileron torque tubes travel in 1/8" holes in the TE portion of the inner ribs, right behind the rear spar.  I had to unpin it to do the other side, as it has a one-piece main spar and each panel builds flat on the board- the outer ribs have building tabs. It seemed like a good time to see if it fit the fuselage. It does.
 

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