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ALBATROSS D5 DUMAS 18" KIT #232 SCALE 1:20 FF (Read 13389 times)
Reply #180 - Feb 18th, 2018 at 11:19am

Yardman Jeff   Offline
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I feel like a kid again
SW corner of upstate NY

Posts: 146
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That's a good looking pilot  Cool
Like those screen shots too.
 
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Reply #179 - Feb 17th, 2018 at 7:42pm

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
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REAL PLANES HAD ROUND
ENGINES AND TWO WINGS
Windsor, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1440
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ALBATROSS D5  -  DUMAS 18" KIT #232 SCALE 1:20 RUBBER POWERED FREE FLIGHT
     Hi Mike.  Still working on the models within the model. 
I learned the hard way
,  with my last 3 pilots,  that I added 
"after the fact"
  -  they would 
NOT FIT
  through the cockpit covering, and I had to razor saw their shoulders narrower to get them in, which caused a whole lot of other problems.  I have the wings and empennage framed up, wheels done, prop done, pilot is now done with one more coat of paint and a few touch ups.  There is no need to try to paint eyes and nostrils etc because it is too small, and the shadows take care of that. Believe me, when I paint that pilot, I have 3 different big size blocks of balsa for my "shaky hand" supports, in order to do that fine painting.   The painting part is actually easy - the hard part was gluing the flimsy thin pilot halves together, and figuring out, and actually testing, the paint scheme colors.   So by finishing the pilot off first, I can then build the fuse, and figure out the pilot height, and attachment method, and location, before I glue on the cockpit covering, and then go on to paper the fuse.   Gotta bend up the landing gear wire which is also sandwiched, before building the fuse - I don't have a wire bender, so I will do it the old fashioned way  -  plus the landing gear wires need solder or thread wrapping.  Then there is the machine gun detailing and engine detailing, models within the model, to finish FIRST, before building the fuse frame, in order for test fitting and making adjustments ahead of time to the fuse frame.   So,  a LONG WAY TO GO, but it is coming along.  I know I am a slow builder  -  it took me 4 months each to build my last 3 models - and on each one I got drawn in, on building in some level of detailing ... I hope it pays off in the end.
LWM
Richard
 

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OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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Reply #178 - Feb 17th, 2018 at 7:06am

New Builder   Offline
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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 483
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Rick - Your hand is way more steady than mine. Looking forward to seeing this guy in your plane. BTW - how's the plane coming along?
New Builder
Mike
 

Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it. (Salvador Dali 1904 - 1989)
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Reply #177 - Feb 16th, 2018 at 7:39pm

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
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REAL PLANES HAD ROUND
ENGINES AND TWO WINGS
Windsor, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1440
****
 
ALBATROSS D5 PILOT

First coat of paint - seven colors.

LWM
Richard
 

OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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Reply #176 - Feb 14th, 2018 at 7:13am

MKelly   Offline
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Helotes, TX

Posts: 432
****
 
Richard,

What you are seeing is the aluminum tubing I used as a bushing for the power plate.  Take a look at the series of photos I posted yesterday in the cookup thread and you can see all the parts and how they come together.

Mike
 
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Reply #175 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 9:48pm

Sky9pilot   Online
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Oh no!!! Another picture???? Roll Eyes Shocked Grin Cheesy

Looks like two possible options:
1. Because Mkelly used wood for the drive/power plate and drive pin he need a hard surface on each side of the wood so it wouldn't be deformed or worn down.  I'm guessing another brass washer. 
2. In the pencil drawing looks like a possible glass bead which a lot of the old timers used instead of brass washers.
That's my guesses!
« Last Edit: Feb 14th, 2018 at 11:53am by Sky9pilot »  


If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #174 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 9:42pm

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
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REAL PLANES HAD ROUND
ENGINES AND TWO WINGS
Windsor, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1440
****
 
Pretty much clears all things up - very good diagrams. 
     But what is this?
LWM
Richard
 

WHAT_IS_THIS.JPG (53 KB | 3 )
WHAT_IS_THIS.JPG

OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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Reply #173 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 9:10pm

MKelly   Offline
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Helotes, TX

Posts: 432
****
 
Richard,

No need for washers either side of the prop - there is never any tension on it.  All the rubber tension load is carried by the power plate, which is why Mike M put the ball bearing race between the power plate and the thrust button. 

Hope this clears things up.

Mike
 
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Reply #172 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 8:45pm

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
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REAL PLANES HAD ROUND
ENGINES AND TWO WINGS
Windsor, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1440
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     Shouldn't  the "
BRASS TUBE BUSHING
" sleeve of the propeller, be extended further back from the back edge of the prop,  to the "
PROP SPACER WASHER
" that is soldered to the prop shaft, like you had it in your pic "FREE WHEELING BEHIND PROP 003" ?  Should there be a couple of small spinning washers at that point?
LWM
Richard
 

OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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Reply #171 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 7:57pm

Sky9pilot   Online
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Mike,
I had to re-read your post several times to put it all together in my head!!!   Roll Eyes Shocked Sad Embarrassed
I see what your saying and I agree with you.  So back to the drawing board...

Edit: Final Drawing I hope! But we've got to get it right! Wink Grin Cool
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #170 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 6:52pm

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 432
****
 
Tom,

The drawing looks good.  The only suggestion I have is to move the drive pin closer to the drive shaft - it needs to be inside the radius of the clutch dog pivot point so the clutch dog can pass over the pin when freewheeling.

Mike
 
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Reply #169 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 6:24pm

Sky9pilot   Online
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Well it turns out that in Mike's Scout pictures on HPA he show a second washer soldered to the prop shaft for the prop to rest on so it won't bind on the Clutch Dog. 

Soooo...here's another revised drawing.  I actually think I can build one of these now for the Walfisch I'm going to build with the very shallow spinner. 

Here's the latest and I think final drawing.
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #168 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 3:50pm

Sky9pilot   Online
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Well Richard...after reading Mike's response on the drawing on HPA  I stand corrected.  The bushing on the prop should stick out beyond the rear prop plate to keep it from binding on the Clutch Dog.  You were way ahead in your thinking than I was.  I've corrected the drawing to meet that requirement.
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #167 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 3:14pm

Sky9pilot   Online
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 9209
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Richard there will be some play in the prop shaft forward and back but the rubber motor will keep tension on the shaft until the motor is completely unwound.  There may still be some residual tension on the prop shaft even with the motor expended (especially with a braided motor).

the propeller is completely free to rotate and there will be some slip forwards and backwards on the prop shaft but the propeller will be stopped in forward motion by the retainer soldered on the end of the prop shaft. 

The brass tube bushing on the prop is flush with the rear prop plate and the front of the front prop plate. This is so the prop is completely free to rotate on the shaft only restrained by the clutch dog when it's engaged between the tang on the shaft drive plate and the prop shaft as you see it being engaged by Mike using the bamboo skewer to engage it in the video.  I hope this answers your questions....if not just ask for further clarification and we'll try to help. 
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #166 - Feb 13th, 2018 at 2:47pm

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
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REAL PLANES HAD ROUND
ENGINES AND TWO WINGS
Windsor, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1440
****
 
Tom - I copied and printed out your drawing and compared it with the 34 second video.  I was wondering what stops the prop and the prop shaft from moving forward and/or backwards a little bit, when there is no rubber motor tension pulling it backwards.
Question - let's see if I can word this right.  Doesn't the prop's orange bushing sleeve extend further out past the rear of the prop, and out past the light blue clutch dog, and butt up against two washers (not shown), at the blue washer drive plate,  which has that small piece of music wire protruding out from its face (the blue washer drive plate itself being soldered to the prop shaft) ?
LWM
Richard
 

FREE_WHEELER_2.JPG (87 KB | 4 )
FREE_WHEELER_2.JPG

OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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