Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register
Stick and Tissue Logo
 
  HomeHelpSearchLoginRegister  
 
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Send Topic Print
Difficulties With Silver Esaki Tissue (Read 771 times)
Reply #10 - Aug 19th, 2018 at 9:29am

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 580
****
 
Howard, what do you use to seal your models after covering with the silver Esaki?  They look brighter than mine (I use Sig nitrate dope).

Really love the prototype scheme on your Mustang - I was thinking about doing that on my Cleveland IT Mustang.

Mike
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #9 - Aug 19th, 2018 at 12:07am

Kittyfritters   Offline
Senior Member
Stick & Tissue
California

Posts: 532
****
 
I've used the Esaki silver on a few models. I apply it wet, shiny side out.  The two issues I have with it are that many paints don't stick to the shiny side so markings are best done with glued on tissue or tape, and while it has better tear resistance than tinted tissue it will actually dent like real metal.

I have also used the silver Design Master spray. (See Cessna 150 photo) It works very well and is easier than using the silver tissue.

KF
 

photo_90__001.JPG (111 KB | 9 )
photo_90__001.JPG
21401_smaller.jpg (110 KB | 11 )
21401_smaller.jpg
24049_smaller.jpg (135 KB | 10 )
24049_smaller.jpg

Qua sublata omnia praecepta legis
IP Logged
 
Reply #8 - Aug 8th, 2018 at 9:44pm

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 580
****
 
Thanks AK, I'll have to pick some up and give it a try.

Mike
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #7 - Aug 8th, 2018 at 9:23am

alfakilo   Offline
Senior Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 523
****
 
Mike, I did this test. Used Krylon Crystal Clear on one half of the rudder and SIG dope (50% thinned) on the other. To my eye, there may have been a very slight reduction in the gloss but the camera did not see it. The difference between the Krylon and dope was not noticeable at all, however, both gave the tissue a slight 'roughness' as is the case when doping tissue. I covered the other side with the tissue to use as a comparison so I had a pretty good reference to use. Other than the feel (and considering the small sample size), it may be that the differences are negligible. I did not see a change to a flat aluminum appearance in any case. (but I was not using a matte spray).

I covered the other side with the glue stick and gave the tissue a light water/alcohol spray to apply the tissue slightly damp but definitely not wet. It was not as fragile as some tissues seem to be when water is used, I could tug it a bit but not anywhere as much as Esaki. I ended up with some small wrinkles and tried smoothing them out by applying alcohol to the edge. Results were so-so and the tissue was easier to separate or tear.

Overall, I saw nothing that would make me not use it again, but doing so on a model with larger covering areas may give a different result.
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #6 - Aug 7th, 2018 at 6:34pm

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 580
****
 
Looks good!  Please put a coat of your favorite sealant (dope, Krylon, etc) on the test piece and post a picture - I'm curious how the silver finish will look.  I've been a bit disappointed in the final appearance of silver Esaki after sealing it with nitrate dope - a lot of the metallic shine goes away and the end result is sort of a dull aluminum appearance.  It'd be nice to have a tissue that kept the shine.

Mike
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #5 - Aug 7th, 2018 at 4:18pm

alfakilo   Offline
Senior Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 523
****
 
While browsing thru the local Michaels store, I found a package of silver tissue in their gift wrap section, and figured I might as well give it a try.

Its got the shiny silver finish on one side and a dull tissue look on the other. I had an old rudder frame and used it as a test piece. I put the tissue on dry with a glue stick and didn't work too hard at getting the wrinkles out. Later I gave the dull side a light water/alcohol spray and was delighted with the outcome. Almost wrinkle free and a second light spray seemed to reduce those as well.

This tissue might be an option especially if applied in smaller pieces to avoid the big curves. Here's the outcome:
 

IP Logged
 
Reply #4 - Feb 28th, 2018 at 7:31pm

LASTWOODSMAN   Offline
Senior Member
REAL PLANES HAD ROUND
ENGINES AND TWO WINGS
Windsor, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1440
****
 
AK - here is a link to Brad's Sorceress - 1972 Reno Biplane racer - he did a fantastic job on his whole model using silver tissue
http://www.stickandtissue.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1487013873/75
LWM
Richard
 

OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
IP Logged
 
Reply #3 - Feb 28th, 2018 at 6:49pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10057
*****
 
I have used Easybuilt's silver tissue.  I like it and apply it similar to the Esaki.  It is a bit more porous than Esaki so can be spritzed on the shinny side, but like Esaki it take more time to penetrate.

My F-86 was covered using Easybuilt tissue. Click Here
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
IP Logged
 
Reply #2 - Feb 28th, 2018 at 6:00pm

alfakilo   Offline
Senior Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 523
****
 
Sky9pilot wrote on Feb 28th, 2018 at 2:42pm:
Esaki Silver/Aluminum is a bird of another feather.  Apparently the silver finish is applied to the tissue and thereby reducing the ability of the tissue to shrink as the color tinted tissue. 

I've found that applying it wet (by wetting the back side) of the tissue and pulling the wrinkles out as best I can before it dries has worked best for me.  It is reluctant to go around compound curves and takes much more patience and re-wetting and additional gluestick for application. Sometimes I've had to resort to small strips for the application.  It does seem to be a bit tougher and more resilient to hanger rash!!!

Another solution to achieving  the aluminum/silver finish is to use black tissue with a light coat of Krylon Silver paint or many use the Design Master Floral Spray like you find at Michael's in silver. 
Tom


Yep, Tom, that pretty well describes my observation when I tried my test strip. Being somewhat clueless, I applied the tissue shiny side up and then tried to shrink that with my water/alcohol spray. Needless to say, that didn't work!!

Eventually, I managed to get the strip pretty much wrinkle-free, but way too much effort for something that was a two-dimensional framework (like a stabilizer would be).

I see where EZBuilt offers a silver tissue. Any experience with that?
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #1 - Feb 28th, 2018 at 2:42pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10057
*****
 
Esaki Silver/Aluminum is a bird of another feather.  Apparently the silver finish is applied to the tissue and thereby reducing the ability of the tissue to shrink as the color tinted tissue. 

I've found that applying it wet (by wetting the back side) of the tissue and pulling the wrinkles out as best I can before it dries has worked best for me.  It is reluctant to go around compound curves and takes much more patience and re-wetting and additional gluestick for application. Sometimes I've had to resort to small strips for the application.  It does seem to be a bit tougher and more resilient to hanger rash!!!

Another solution to achieving  the aluminum/silver finish is to use black tissue with a light coat of Krylon Silver paint or many use the Design Master Floral Spray like you find at Michael's in silver. 
Tom
 

10523837.jpg (72 KB | )
10523837.jpg

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
IP Logged
 
Feb 28th, 2018 at 12:51pm

alfakilo   Offline
Senior Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 523
****
 
I did a test run with this tissue and immediately saw that it has characteristics different from other esaki colors. I searched here but didn't find much, on the HPA forum, however, there is a fairly wide ranging discussion.

Has anyone had success with this and if so, what worked for you?
 
IP Logged
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Send Topic Print