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Airbrushing Info (Read 2258 times)
Reply #42 - Apr 11th, 2018 at 12:46pm

alfakilo   Offline
Senior Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 521
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I have found that regular Q-Tips don't do a good job on cleaning the regulator/nozzle...too big, don't fit.

Then I found these on E-Bay, dirt cheap, less than $4 including shipping for 50. Of course, it's coming from Japan so it will take a few days.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026IBC3I/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&ps...
 
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Reply #41 - Apr 9th, 2018 at 5:21pm

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 521
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Sky9pilot wrote on Mar 29th, 2018 at 12:24pm:
I'll admit my Paasche H1 doesn't have that worry as much because it's and external paint system.  Still needs cleaning but isn't as sensitive as a dual action airbrush.
Tom


Thanks for the tip. I just got mine from Midwest, the $30 special. Gave it a quick tryout, seems easier to use than my old Badger.
 
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Reply #40 - Mar 29th, 2018 at 12:24pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Sorry you had all the frustration with the airbrush.  You've definitely arrived at the most important flow of cleaning....1st, Airbrush 2nd paint bottle and all the other things.  Amazing what a small spec of paint dried in the wrong place will do to an airbrush.  I'll admit my Paasche H1 doesn't have that worry as much because it's and external paint system.  Still needs cleaning but isn't as sensitive as a dual action airbrush.
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #39 - Mar 29th, 2018 at 11:54am

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 521
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The airbrush gremlins struck again!

Last night, I had just finished a little touch up work. I put the Badger down and cleaned out the paint jar. I then cleaned the Badger as usual, disassembly and attention to all the parts. However when I put it back together again to give it one more blow out, the air was there but no siphoning at all.

After some fiddling, I saw what I thought was the problem, air leaking out of the head assembly, both from the head and regulator. Tear down and repeated cleanings, etc and no improvement. Good air spray but no siphoning apparently because of the air leakage.

Solution? Google it. Lots of tips. One in particular was to seal the head and regulator threads with beeswax or ChapStick. Not having any beeswax, I went with ChapStick, being careful not to clog anything up in the process.

No improvement. And to make matters worse, the gun would not back flush either. Took the head assembly off and same result. It was like something was stopping the flow in or out of the paint supply. Q-Tips, pipe cleaners, etc and no change. Very strange.

With the head on, I could easily see the air leakage. I snugged up the head a little tighter than finger tight. Nope.

And then, out of nowhere, the gun began siphoning again. Back flushing OK. Back to normal operation.

I don't have a clue. Except next time, I'll clean the gun first and then worry about the paint jar.
 
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Reply #38 - Mar 28th, 2018 at 1:40pm

alfakilo   Offline
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Posts: 521
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New Builder wrote on Mar 28th, 2018 at 11:22am:
Not in my book either, but keep in mind that when reducing (thinning) with lacquer thinner, you have created a lacquer based paint that is no longer cleanable with water. 


Yep, I've already made that mistake. I bought a bottle of Testors thinner and forgot that it was for Testors enamel paint. I was heavy into the 'let's get started' airbrushing mode and was getting confused with all of the options that I had seen on YouTube.

We are getting a pretty good number of views on this topic. I hope it is of value to folks. I figure that I'm going to probably make the newbie mistakes and have the newbie questions that others can benefit from.
 
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Reply #37 - Mar 28th, 2018 at 1:12pm

New Builder   Offline
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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

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Almost forgot - don't store your lacquer-based paint in plastic, lacquer will dissolve it when you least want it to.
NB
Mike
 

Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it. (Salvador Dali 1904 - 1989)
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Reply #36 - Mar 28th, 2018 at 11:22am

New Builder   Offline
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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

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Quote:
Do you think there is a reason to choose the Tamiya brand over store brand?

Not in my book either, but keep in mind that when reducing (thinning) with lacquer thinner, you have created a lacquer based paint that is no longer cleanable with water. This is where your internal mix airbrush will need to be cleaned very thoroughly. If you find there is still some residual material in your airbrush, try ammonia diluted with water, about 50-50 or possibly mineral spirits (paint thinner). All this having been said, Mike is absolutely correct in his recommendation on both the tape and thinning with lacquer thinner.
NB
Mike
 

Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it. (Salvador Dali 1904 - 1989)
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Reply #35 - Mar 27th, 2018 at 3:31pm

MKelly   Offline
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Helotes, TX

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Not in my book.  Plus, the bulk lacquer thinner makes an excellent brush cleaner for nitrate dope, acrylics and enamels as well as a handy surface cleaner for metals.

Mike
 
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Reply #34 - Mar 27th, 2018 at 2:38pm

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 521
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MKelly wrote on Mar 27th, 2018 at 11:39am:
Hope this helps, Mike


It does! I've seen several posts where folks prefer the Tamiya lacquer thinner over the X-20A acrylic thinner. I'll give it a try.

Store bought lacquer thinner is much less expensive. Do you think there is a reason to choose the Tamiya brand over store brand?


 
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Reply #33 - Mar 27th, 2018 at 11:39am

MKelly   Offline
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Helotes, TX

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AK,

I'll second the recommendation for Tamiya thinned with lacquer thinner.

When I built my Tempest I sprayed the doped tissue with Tamiya thinned with denatured alcohol.  Masking tape pulled the paint off the tissue in a few spots, the tissue sagged until the paint was dry, and in some areas (particularly on the ocean gray) there was some blushing and color inconsistency.

After making some repairs to the wing and re-covering with fresh tissue and dope, I sprayed the repairs with the same Tamiya paint thinned with Home Depot lacquer thinner.  The paint adhered to the tissue much better (no lifting), no sags, and no blushing.  The paint has held up well over many flying sessions in the year since, despite all my manhandling and flight rash.

I've used Tamiya and lacquer thinner on several projects since with similar good results.

Regarding tape, I picked up this "Washi" tape in 2016 from Amazon - very similar to Tamiya tape and lots cheaper.  It works very well both for direct surface masking and for attaching paper masks for airbrushing.  I use a lot of it and still have a lot left.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKI9816/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UT...

Hope this helps,

Mike
 

0000_Tempest.JPG (312 KB | )
0000_Tempest.JPG
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Reply #32 - Mar 27th, 2018 at 7:39am

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 521
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Sky9pilot wrote on Mar 27th, 2018 at 12:55am:
Retarder is for use when painting in arid conditions or when an extended open or drying time is desired.

Blick has a Liquitex Acrylic Medium explaination page on all the possible Acrylic Mediums used to retard the paint and many other options: Click Here

Lots of things to look at when using acrylic paints and airbrushes.
Tom


Excellent, just what I was looking for!
 
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Reply #31 - Mar 27th, 2018 at 12:55am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10049
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Retarder is for use when painting in arid conditions or when an extended open or drying time is desired.

Blick has a Liquitex Acrylic Medium explaination page on all the possible Acrylic Mediums used to retard the paint and many other options: Click Here

Lots of things to look at when using acrylic paints and airbrushes.
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #30 - Mar 26th, 2018 at 10:02pm

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 521
****
 
Not having much luck finding a retarder. Is SIG retarder what we use with acrylics?
 
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Reply #29 - Mar 26th, 2018 at 7:13pm

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 521
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Spliffsecond wrote on Mar 26th, 2018 at 6:16pm:
What brand of acrylics do you use?
Tamiya can be deluted with wather, alcohol or laquer thinner.
But I get the best results with laquer thinner.

Most paints come in a brushing consistence and need a lot of deluting before they become sprayable 50% and up.
Try to find a retarder for your brand of acrylics, the paint will take longer to dry and has a chance to selflevel.

Many fine layers are much better then one tick layer. Most of the masking problems come from spraying to thick and to quickly.
Always spray from the outside of the mask to the inside never the other way around, then you can be shure you have bleed throug and a very sticky mask wich will take paint with him when you try to remove it.
I also found out that Post it’s work really well on tissue but had also good results with oracal maskingfilm and Tamya tape ( wich in fact is a japanese tape called kabuki and is much cheaper then what Tamiya charges for it)


Thanks much!

I'm using Tamiya but am experimenting with craft paints too (Apple Barrel, etc). I am thinning the Tamiya 50/50 with Tamiya X-20a thinner. I'll try a retarder as you suggest.

I think I have been guilty of not using light coats. Lesson learned!
 
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Reply #28 - Mar 26th, 2018 at 6:16pm

Spliffsecond   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Asse Belgium

Posts: 60
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Chalky finish is from spraying to “dry” your paint is already dry when it hits the surface. Normally if you paint wet the paint has time to selflevel before it skins over.
What brand of acrylics do you use?
Tamiya can be deluted with wather, alcohol or laquer thinner.
But I get the best results with laquer thinner.
Be  carefull some acrylics will form little grummets (dont know the word, the pigment sticks together) when you mix it with anything other than water. It will ruin your airbrush.
Most paints come in a brushing consistence and need a lot of deluting before they become sprayable 50% and up.
Try to find a retarder for your brand of acrylics, the paint will take longer to dry and has a chance to selflevel.

Many fine layers are much better then one tick layer. Most of the masking problems come from spraying to thick and to quickly.
Always spray from the outside of the mask to the inside never the other way around, then you can be shure you have bleed throug and a very sticky mask wich will take paint with him when you try to remove it.
I also found out that Post it’s work really well on tissue but had also good results with oracal maskingfilm and Tamya tape ( wich in fact is a japanese tape called kabuki and is much cheaper then what Tamiya charges for it)

Airbrushing is something you can only learn by doing it, making lots of mistakes and hopefully learn from them. The quest for the ideal paint is never ending and can become a bit of a problem. I think I must have 30 different brands of all sorts of paint, acrylcs, oils, enamels, laquerbased, inks, automotive, 2k, one shot (leadpaint), ... and they all are good for something but never is there a paint that does it all.

I have been painting with airbrush and brush for over 20 years and I still get surprises some time. Its a real black art.

Some things I did

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Grtz free
 
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