Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register
Stick and Tissue Logo
 
  HomeHelpSearchLoginRegister  
 
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Send Topic Print
Applying Decals Over Acrylic Paint (Read 197 times)
Reply #13 - May 10th, 2018 at 9:50am

alfakilo   Offline
Full Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 142
***
 
LabinaLA wrote on May 8th, 2018 at 3:08am:
sorry that is not on the topic, I wanted to ask.Is from this material it turns out something worthwhile?


Not for me. I'm going to stay with printing on tissue. I think the waterslide type that I bought is more appropriate for putting decals on things like coffee mugs, etc, not the models that we build.
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #12 - May 8th, 2018 at 3:08am

LabinaLA   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!

Posts: 20
 
sorry that is not on the topic, I wanted to ask.Is from this material it turns out something worthwhile?
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #11 - May 6th, 2018 at 1:04pm

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 432
****
 
AK,

I apply the glue stick to the markings, then put them on the model.  I'm using UHU clear glue stick, although I have successfully used Elmer's purple too.  A q'tip moistened with rubbing alcohol will remove glue stick residue, but you don't want to have it fully wetted or scrub it hard against the tissue. 

I have yet to try dope over Tamiya paints other than at the edges of repairs, and those were painted over with a fresh coat of Tamiya, so I don't know how well that would work.  Might be better to use Tamiya clear coat to seal the markings if you're putting them down over paint.

You definitely want some sort of sealer coat over the markings - on the Navion I waited a couple weeks before doping over the black USAF lettering and the glue stick started to let go from the doped silver tissue.  A little rubbing alcohol re-activated the glue stick and got them stuck back down, and a with a coat of Nitrate dope over the finished wing I've had no further problems with the markings coming loose.

I haven't tried coloring the tissue before printing - not sure how well the print heads would handle any particulates that might come loose.

As far as the hangar goes, thanks - I'm learning with every model I build...

Mike
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #10 - May 6th, 2018 at 10:31am

alfakilo   Offline
Full Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 142
***
 
I'm working with replacing the decals with tissue and have some questions.

Do you apply the glue stick to the tissue decal or to the airplane itself? I've tried both. When gluing the airplane surface, I've had problems with residue glue and haven't been able to clean it off well. I've tried UHU (blue stick) and Elmers (both white, clear, and purple glue sticks).

I'm airbrushing Tamiya acrylics. Any problems applying dope over this paint?

I'm using the same white pencil as you. I'm going to try it out on the Polish markings and compare this to applying the tissue decal without highlighting the white areas. Attached are pics showing these without doping. #1 is top of the wing, dark brown and #2 is the bottom in light blue.

Is it possible to color the tissue before printing on it?

Btw, I looked at your hangar...great stuff and definitely something to aspire to!
« Last Edit: May 6th, 2018 at 11:40am by alfakilo »  

d500_tissue_1.jpg (24 KB | 2 )
d500_tissue_1.jpg
d500_tissue_2.jpg (17 KB | 2 )
d500_tissue_2.jpg
IP Logged
 
Reply #9 - May 5th, 2018 at 11:48am

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 432
****
 
AK,

I usually use a white colored pencil on the back of the lighter colors (anything I want to stand out).  See pics below - on the Me-262 I colored the back of the yellow numbers, white insignia and blue/white flash in front of the cockpit.  In the pic the markings on one side of the tissue have been colored, the other side hasn't yet been colored - you can see the difference.  Same for the sheet of US insignia, with the white and red areas colored.  You can see in the picture of the Navion how the white pencil opaques the tissue and keeps the silver from showing through.

Mike
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #8 - May 5th, 2018 at 8:22am

alfakilo   Offline
Full Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 142
***
 
MKelly wrote on May 5th, 2018 at 6:35am:
Do a quick web search to find a good graphic for the insignia, import it into PowerPoint and scale it appropriately, then print it on white tissue.  Color the back side with a white colored pencil, cut the insignia out and tack it to the model using glue stick, then seal with a coat of dope.  If you look in my hangar you can see a Navion and an F5F with insignia done this way. Mike


I like this technique and used it on this Bristol. The wing and tail red stripes are red tissue over white. The roundels were printed on white tissue and the red color clearly shows thru.

Taking someone's advice, I bought some Prismacolor pencils. When you say to color the backside, I'm assuming you mean only the white portions?
 

MC1_b.jpg (19 KB | 4 )
MC1_b.jpg
IP Logged
 
Reply #7 - May 5th, 2018 at 6:35am

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 432
****
 
Do a quick web search to find a good graphic for the insignia, import it into PowerPoint and scale it appropriately, then print it on white tissue.  Color the back side with a white colored pencil, cut the insignia out and tack it to the model using glue stick, then seal with a coat of dope.  If you look in my hangar you can see a Navion and an F5F with insignia done this way.

Mike
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #6 - May 4th, 2018 at 10:43pm

alfakilo   Offline
Full Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 142
***
 
MKelly wrote on May 4th, 2018 at 1:56pm:
I've given up on waterslide decals and now use printed tissue.  With a little care and some chalk or pencil to opaque the back side...Mike


I've tried tissue and so far it has worked OK for me, just more work than a traditional decal.

Using the Polish fighter that I've mentioned, how would you use tissue to achieve the same (or close to) appearance?
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #5 - May 4th, 2018 at 1:56pm

MKelly   Offline
Senior Member
Helotes, TX

Posts: 432
****
 
AK, your pictures mirror my experiences trying to put decals on tissue-covered models.  Hard to get them to stick down, even with Solvaset.  I always seem to get discolored areas from trapped air under the decal, and when they do stick down they aren't very robust, fracturing and flaking off anywhere the tissue takes damage. 

I've given up on waterslide decals and now use printed tissue.  With a little care and some chalk or pencil to opaque the back side they'll look just as sharp and clean as waterslide decals, but they lay down much better on the surface and after a coat of dope will look and behave just like the tissue substrate.  Plus, if (when) you damage the skin you can just print and apply fresh markings over the repairs.

Mike
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #4 - May 4th, 2018 at 11:32am

alfakilo   Offline
Full Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 142
***
 
Here is a wing decal applied on a flat surface. The decal on the other side did not curl up as bad as the first, but it scratched easily. The fuselage decal stayed on well but all decals were easy to scratch while blotting out the bubbles, etc.

The decal paper was sprayed twice with Krylon clear before application.

I'll post more when I try to fix these.
 

p7_bad_decal_2.jpg (28 KB | 3 )
p7_bad_decal_2.jpg
p7_good_decal.jpg (15 KB | 2 )
p7_good_decal.jpg
p7_decal.jpg (17 KB | 3 )
p7_decal.jpg
IP Logged
 
Reply #3 - May 4th, 2018 at 9:31am

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 9208
*****
 
That's way I used to do plastic models....glossy surface for applying the decal using solva-set, then a matte finish over the decal to give the flat military finish. 

I look forward to seeing how this works for you.
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
IP Logged
 
Reply #2 - May 3rd, 2018 at 4:51pm

alfakilo   Offline
Full Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 142
***
 
The Sunnyscopa decal paper that I ordered from Amazon worked like any decal method...put in water for a minute or so, decal loosens up, apply to surface, blot out bubbles, etc. I thought the decal itself seems 'thicker' than what is typical of plastic models. These are also quite shiny and detract from the military matte finish. Maybe a matte overspray can fix that.

No heat or glue required.
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #1 - May 3rd, 2018 at 3:56pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 9208
*****
 
First I've never heard of the Sunnyscopa paper... did a little research and from what I saw on YouTube there are two types, A & B... "A" apparently needs heat to set and I'm talking oven heat...Where the "B" doesn't need the additional oven heat after the heat gun/hair dryer.   I'll be interested to see how this works.  I saw that there were two types of glue as well for glossy surfaces and for rough surfaces. 

I'm more use to traditional decal sheets where the glue is already on the back of the decal film.  This stuff works better on a smooth glossy surface.  Solva-set works well with this type of decal...not sure it would work with Sunnyscopa paper.

I'll be interested to see how this works out.
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
IP Logged
 
May 3rd, 2018 at 12:45pm

alfakilo   Offline
Full Member
Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 142
***
 
I have just applied my first waterslide-type decals and have a question or two.

The model is a Polish WW2 fighter and airbrushed with acrylics. The decals were printed on Sunnyscopa paper.

Questions...should I spray the model with sealer (Krylon) before applying the decals? The acrylic finish feels 'grainy' to me and I am concerned about the instructions about not applying over a 'porous' finish.

Should I use a decal sealer such as Solva-Set once the decal has been applied?

Finally, should I apply some type of clear coat as a final step?

 
IP Logged
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Send Topic Print