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Interested in a winter trimotor cookup (Read 1313 times)
Reply #84 - Feb 14th, 2019 at 7:55am

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

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MKelly wrote on Feb 13th, 2019 at 4:03pm:
AK, the white is plain Esaki chalked on the backside with white artist pastel chalk.

Mike


OK! I think I'll try this, and if anyone needs more info (I did), here's a link from EasyBuilt that explains the technique:

https://easybuiltmodels.com/chalk.htm
 
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Reply #83 - Feb 13th, 2019 at 9:11pm

MKelly   Offline
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Helotes, TX

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Very unusual subject Ian - I'd guess you could show this in both the Trimotor and Obscure Aircraft cookups.  Lots of fuselage volume in this one.  The shape reminds me of Pres Bruning's Hiperbipe plan.

Mike
 
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Reply #82 - Feb 13th, 2019 at 7:28pm

pb_guy   Offline
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So I'm just a kid at heart.
Youbou, BC, Vancouver Island

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I have been working on creating a 3-view of the 1939 Helmy Aerogypt Mark III for this cookup, but I probably won't get to the building stage for a while. I created a fairly reasonable 3-view and used it to make a crude 3-D card model to check against the available pictures. Not perfect, but it is in the ballpark. I know what areas need refinement. Still lots of work to go to make it usable for construction.
ian
 

Test_model1.jpg (57 KB | 0 )
Test_model1.jpg
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Reply #81 - Feb 13th, 2019 at 4:03pm

MKelly   Offline
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Helotes, TX

Posts: 637
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AK, the white is plain Esaki chalked on the backside with white artist pastel chalk.

Mike
 
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Reply #80 - Feb 13th, 2019 at 2:40pm

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 603
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Thanks, Mike. I will try this with my next build, the He119.

Your white tissue is nice and white. Some of the white tissue that I try comes out more translucent than white. Where did you get this tissue?
 
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Reply #79 - Feb 13th, 2019 at 10:32am

MKelly   Offline
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Helotes, TX

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alfakilo wrote on Feb 12th, 2019 at 3:04pm:
I use a 30% dope/70% thinner mix to 'seal' the tissue with. Is this enough of a dope coating to use the wicking technique, or should I go with a higher % of dope?




AK,

30/70 dope should work fine for this - I thin my dope pretty aggresively and the technique hasn't given me any problems.

I've had some trouble with UHU glue stick coming loose when used to apply tissue markings over doped tissue or painted tissue.  The Elmer's purple seems to work better for that application, but over doped tissue I find the thinner method superior to either glue stick.  I do sometimes use the clear UHU to tack on lettering before flowing on the thinner, mostly when trying to align a long string of lettering such as "U.S.Air Force" down the side of a model (see pic). 

That said, I very much prefer the UHU clear for attaching tissue to undoped structures - it's greasier so it spreads better and it seems to dry a bit slower giving you more time to tug the tissue around.

So what's your next build?

Mike
 
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Reply #78 - Feb 13th, 2019 at 8:08am

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 603
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Some pics of the N-23 show what seems to be a wing dihedral similar to the Raider. That pic of the Conejo airport takeoff demo was flown with the N-23 and it sure looks like those wings have dihedral.
 
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Reply #77 - Feb 12th, 2019 at 11:39pm

Kerak   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Roy, Utah

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Yeh...saw that 3-view Alf...N-23 not quite the hands-off flyer for rubber that the 125 is...no dihedral and all.  Also note that it's showing two-bladed props.  Empennage is different as well.  Bet the military version was a much better ac....

Thanks for the view....

Neal
 
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Reply #76 - Feb 12th, 2019 at 3:04pm

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 603
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Mike, I think I will try this on my next model. I use a 30% dope/70% thinner mix to 'seal' the tissue with. Is this enough of a dope coating to use the wicking technique, or should I go with a higher % of dope?

The tissue decals are stuck on with a glue stick, but it sounds like your tip will produce a better looking finish.

Something else I'm using...it's not unusual when I glue the decals on for an edge to come loose. To stick that edge down, I dissolved some Elmers glue stick in alcohol until it gets 'soupy'. Then I use a very small paint brush to dab the glue mix under the edge of the tissue decal and smooth it down. It usually sticks well and no further attention is needed. One note...I tried dissolving UHU for this but the UHU glue doesn't dissolve very well.

Neal...yep, the French and Italians often produced some eye candy and then called them airplanes!! I saw that Northrop built their N-23 before redoing it as the C-125. The N-23 seems a bit less angular, at least to my eye!
 

N-23.gif (343 KB | 1 )
N-23.gif
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Reply #75 - Feb 12th, 2019 at 1:13pm

MKelly   Offline
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Helotes, TX

Posts: 637
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AK,

If you've doped the base tissue you can apply tissue markings over it by just placing the marking where you want it then flowing dope thinner onto the marking with a brush.  The thinner wicks through the marking and dissolves the surface layer of dope on the underlying tissue, which wicks back into the marking tissue and solidly attaches it to the model. 

The neat thing about this is that surface tension pulls the marking tight against the covering - little to no poking, prodding or smoothing necessary to get a "painted-on" look to the markings.

If desired when you're finished you can brush a sealer coat of thinned dope over the markings (or entire model).

Also, if you ever have to repair the model the markings can be floated back off the tissue using another application of dope thinner and re-used on the repaired covering. (Had to do this on the Wedell-Williams, worked beautifully.)

That said, your technique has produced an outstanding model.

Cheers,

Mike
 
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Reply #74 - Feb 12th, 2019 at 12:33pm

Kerak   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Roy, Utah

Posts: 1769
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I think Tom used the word "pop," and that's a good description of your detailed tissue work, Alf...it "pops"...is very crisp and precise.  Model gets a serious thumbs-up here.  Smiley

I believe you've got a real museum collection by now...hope you've found a way to display them.  Smiley

IMO...French and Italian aircraft of the period incorporated a design effort toward being artistic...art deco-like.  Seems everyone else focused upon being utilitarian...while the French and Italians were creating works of art...IMO.  Of course, there are many exceptions to that impression...but overall....  Your model is very artistic...and well executed...captures the spirit of the original design.

Neal
 
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Reply #73 - Feb 12th, 2019 at 11:10am

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 603
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Thanks much for everyone's compliments! There's much to learn from others here, for example, a previous poster colored his stringers, etc, with a red sharpie so that the framework looked better under the red tissue. I thought that looked really neat, and so I tried the same with this model.

I used thinned acrylic paint (a white and grey from Vallejo) for the framework. I thought the white turned out better than the grey, but both seemed to cover the balsa color pretty well.

The black and dark grey areas around the nose and nacelles are new tissue covering the initial tissue. Not master plan on this, I decided later to change the color for these areas and didn't want to remove the existing tissue. I found that I could apply the new tissue over the existing tissue by using a thinned Aleens Tacky Glue mixture (something like 60%-70% water). The initial tissue had been doped with a 30% SIG dope. The Aleens would soak into the doped tissue and look kinda wrinkled at first. I gently used the paint brush to smooth out the new tissue and was careful not to tear the wet tissue. As it dries, everything tightens up nicely.

The cockpit and fuselage windows are black tissue stuck on with a glue stick and then painted with the Aleens mix. The cockpit is 1/32 sheet while the fuselage area is tissue.

I do not do this to the tissue decals, however. I wish I could, but the water mix makes the decals bleed. I use a HP Deskjet with LxTek ink. This ink does not bleed if I use dope over it.
 
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Reply #72 - Feb 12th, 2019 at 9:37am

New Builder   Offline
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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

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Really nice work AK. The covering is great and your mastery of the tissue-cals is great, makes the plane truly stand out.
Mike
 

Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it. (Salvador Dali 1904 - 1989)
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Reply #71 - Feb 11th, 2019 at 2:08pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Ditto what the guys have already said: WoW love how the tissue decals make the nacelles pop!
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #70 - Feb 10th, 2019 at 6:00pm

93rdLiberator   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!

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Wow...just...wow.

I REALLY want to see a video of this sucker in the air!

Nice job...Dan
 
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