Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register
Stick and Tissue Logo
 
  HomeHelpSearchLoginRegister  
 
 
Pages: 1 2 3 
Send Topic Print
Much loved Comet Hellcat (Read 29917 times)
Reply #18 - Mar 22nd, 2012 at 10:43pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
*****
 
Konrad1 wrote on Mar 22nd, 2012 at 7:23pm:
Black Lion.
(Sounds like an Apple OS X name)


While I have your attention I'd like to ask if anybody has any "tricks" to getting off the wind screen glazing that was held on with a 3M glue stick (craft store type). I'm not too sure I want to reroll my own green house again. Actually I'm rather proud at how the green house came out on this kit and would hate to lose it.

All the best,
Konrad


You might try isopropol alcohol on a q-tip to minimize the spread...I have used this to re-activate a gluestick that has dried out from leaving the cap off too long while applying tissue... I'd wet it down pretty liberally and let it set and then apply a second application and after that has sat for a minute or so check for loosening...this may or may not work, but it's worth a shot...

Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
IP Logged
 
Reply #17 - Mar 22nd, 2012 at 9:50pm

Konrad1   Offline

Stick & Tissue
Everett Wa USA

Posts: 19
 
Thanks,
Now I understand.

I too don't like to use CA for these stick and tissue model builds. But I do use CA to expedite field repairs. Unfortunately it often carries a heavy price when it comes to making a quality repair back at the bench.

All the best,
Konrad
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #16 - Mar 22nd, 2012 at 7:43pm

Black Lion   Offline
Senior Member
Stick & Tissue
Carpentersville, IL

Posts: 256
****
 
Yeah, Mac sure loves the big cat names for their OS 10 op systems but my username stems from military service: served with 2/28th Infantry (Black Lions of Cantigny).

As for the tissue tearing; I meant the new patch would have torn edges and not to tear out the old stuff. I use an X-acto to slice the tissue off the framework.

No clue on how to remove the gluestick stuff; I've never, ever used it nor do I use CA's of any type (allergies).
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #15 - Mar 22nd, 2012 at 7:23pm

Konrad1   Offline

Stick & Tissue
Everett Wa USA

Posts: 19
 
Black Lion.
(Sounds like an Apple OS X name)

Thanks for the heads up. I knew about this torn edge with raw silkspan and some of the lower grade tissues on virgin covering jobs. But as this ship is well doped I don't see the covering tearing well (giving a feather edge). I will be adding some 0.5mm fill to the top of the wing saddle area and under the wind screen.

While I have your attention I'd like to ask if anybody has any "tricks" to getting off the wind screen glazing that was held on with a 3M glue stick (craft store type). I'm not too sure I want to reroll my own green house again. Actually I'm rather proud at how the green house came out on this kit and would hate to lose it.

All the best,
Konrad
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #14 - Mar 17th, 2012 at 11:08am

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
*****
 
Blacklion...

Welcome back ...great to hear from you...

Thanks for the great insights on the tissue fiber...

Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
IP Logged
 
Reply #13 - Mar 17th, 2012 at 6:47am

Black Lion   Offline
Senior Member
Stick & Tissue
Carpentersville, IL

Posts: 256
****
 
Old, curled tissue should always be removed before recovering. Just slice along the nearest structural member to give a clean edge. When patching an area like that it's best to tear the tissue rather than cut it because the fibers fan out and light sanding will blend the covering quite nicely. A cut edge will create a "ledge".

BTW...been "away" for a while and the new look of the place is exceptional! Great job, fellows!
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #12 - Feb 9th, 2012 at 11:19pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
*****
 
Konrad,

I don't think you'll like trying to cover over the old tissue...I'd go with my first recommendation...add some 1/32 or sand down to 1/20 to fill that area over the wing to the lower stringer above the wing.  You'll be much more satisfied with that covering then.

Looks and sounds like you need a new nose block/prop bearing block with built in down and right adjustment...  there are many ways of having adjustable thrust bearing...check out the videos of Chris Boehm on the vacuform/click noseblock...one he shows the front and back have aluminum plates.  Front is fixed and the rear is adjustable.  Then the shims can be eliminated....

Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
IP Logged
 
Reply #11 - Feb 9th, 2012 at 6:23pm

C.L. Chennault   Offline
Administrator
I love YaBB!
Springfield MO.

Posts: 759
*****
 
I see what you mean about the curled tissue.  Looks kind of "iffy" .
I kinda think maybe some 1/32 sheet "fill" in the area would be more trustworthy.  Just my opinion.   
Perhaps a small test patch would answer the question.  [From the existing tissue to the first stringer] If you don't like the result, there would be less to remove.  I have not tried to attach to tissue that old, in a spot like that, so I have no real world experience to share. 
Would love to see how it turns out.
 

What does THIS button do?.........
IP Logged
 
Reply #10 - Feb 9th, 2012 at 4:52pm

Konrad1   Offline

Stick & Tissue
Everett Wa USA

Posts: 19
 
Tom,
Thank you.

The wings have been recovered a few time over the last 18 years. I too use stiff paper  to make a fitted pattern that I then use to cut the tissue. Fitting into the joint corner isn't my concern. My concern is that there is no wood above the wing to attach the fuselage covering. I die leave some of the original covering but it curled when I cut it. My concern is if this curling will cause a wrinkle when I try the wet the new tissue to shrink it. Or will the new dope and thinner relaxes the old tissue enough that it won't distort (wrinkle) the new tissue. I have much the same concern about the tissue under the windscreen.

P.S.
Tom I'm sorry I didn't see you comments in the second post. You answered my question with the response I feared but knew was the correct way to go.

All the best,
Konrad
 
IP Logged
 
Reply #9 - Feb 9th, 2012 at 3:19pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
Administrator
Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
*****
 
Konrad1....

As Thymekiller said...great to have you aboard.  I'd say she's a keeper.  With your vert apparent skills....you'll have her in the air again soon.  I don't think you'll need to separate the wing and fuselage.  You might make a pattern from bond paper to cut your tissue for right over the wing.  The rest you'll be able to cover easily. 

I'm with you...these models are for my enjoyment and therapy.  Like Chris' videos on another thread...just something about seeing them circle overhead Grin Grin Wink Cool

Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
IP Logged
 
Reply #8 - Feb 8th, 2012 at 11:09pm

Konrad1   Offline

Stick & Tissue
Everett Wa USA

Posts: 19
 
I (she) also needs a bit of a nose job. As you can see she needed a lot of down a right thrust with all the power she had.  All those shims can't and aren't very stable! I found it odd but very effective to trim her as Don Ross said in his great book on Flying Rubber Band Powered Models.

All the best,
Konrad
 

Cowl_rub_red.jpg (153 KB | )
Cowl_rub_red.jpg
IP Logged
 
Reply #7 - Feb 8th, 2012 at 11:05pm

Konrad1   Offline

Stick & Tissue
Everett Wa USA

Posts: 19
 
Thymekiller,
She really is in good shape. The tail feathers are fine but they don't hold their trim setting very long. I'd like to add some small gussets to the major tail feather joints in hopes of adding some rigidity with little weight gain.

As far as breaking any CA joints I don't think I need to break them. Most of the CA was to do field repairs, minor broken stinger , etc.  You are aware that CA really is just an acrylic plastic. Despite the marketing hype  like "Super Glue" and "one drop can hold a ton" it really is a rather weak glue, but it is fast. Since it is an acrylic plastic just about any form of acetone will break it down.

Now the glazing looked better years ago before the dyes faded in the tissue. She use to be dark blue on top and white on the bottom. The posted photos do exaggerate the flaws as they are about 5 times larger than actual size. And yes the glazing was attached with a glue stick. I wonder how good the bond is after all most 2 decades.
I will say that I'm a firm believer in the notion that competition improvers the breed. But when it comes to these models I can't hope to compete with the stuff I see post by the members of the Flying Aces club. So I just doe these gummy band ships for my own pleasure. And a big part of that pleasure is making my next ship better than the previous ship. With this rebuild I hope to improve upon the glide while keeping her look as good as she did when she came off the building board.

And the key to doing that is the remove as much of this as possible!

All the best,
Konrad
 

IP Logged
 
Reply #6 - Feb 8th, 2012 at 8:49pm

C.L. Chennault   Offline
Administrator
I love YaBB!
Springfield MO.

Posts: 759
*****
 
Maybe you don't need to remove the glazing.
I saved a set of reading glasses once by cleaning with soap, water, and a q-tip. Then sprayed Krylon clear.   Filled the pits and scratches nicely.
I have attached tissue to glazing with glue stick.  I apply the tissue dry and let the glue dry completely!  Then mist the tissue.

A black sharpie will do the framework and hide the seems nicely.

Please bear in mind that I have not built any contest winners.  I don't compete with anyone except myself.  Hard to see minor imperfections 20/50 foot overhead.  Grin Grin
 

What does THIS button do?.........
IP Logged
 
Reply #5 - Feb 8th, 2012 at 8:42pm

C.L. Chennault   Offline
Administrator
I love YaBB!
Springfield MO.

Posts: 759
*****
 
Konrad, you are very welcome.

Go for it !!  Do you really need to remove the tail feathers, or maybe some careful tissue trickery?   They look fine in that pic.  The whole thing looks pretty decent, all around.

I have heard that fingernail polish remover is the ticket for dissolving CA.  Comes with its own cool, fine, brush.  Acetone. Will still need a good, sharp pointed, exacto.  Think "surgery"


Any chance you could post a few more pics?
 

What does THIS button do?.........
IP Logged
 
Reply #4 - Feb 8th, 2012 at 8:03pm

Konrad1   Offline

Stick & Tissue
Everett Wa USA

Posts: 19
 
Thymekiller.
Thanks for the warm welcome.

She was built with Franklin Titebond glue, but repaired with CA. She is about 18 years old (sorry old gal). I hate the idea of binning her. She actually flew rather well. There is little she has to apologize for. I know I could make another a little bit better and that is another project.  I do have another kit and the printings in the attic somewhere.

I'd like to save this bird.
Pulling of the tail feathers is a no brainer, very easy to do. But pulling off the wings will be akin to torturing a small animal. I'm leaning towards anding some 1 mm (1/32") fillers where needed to attach the covering that and some good sanding should bring some joy back to the old gal.

All the best,
Konrad
 

Comet_Hellcat.jpg (137 KB | )
Comet_Hellcat.jpg
IP Logged
 
Pages: 1 2 3 
Send Topic Print