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FW-190 (Read 24797 times)
Reply #51 - Jul 27th, 2015 at 7:58pm

terryman   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Los Gatos, CA

Posts: 865
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I do not have more pictures of the fuselage covering in progress but can give some written description of the technique.  I use Nitrate dope thinned 50/50 and apply the tissue dry.  The grain is always running in the same direction, in this case along the length of the fuselage.  I have no doubt a clever use of glue stick could be used, I leave that for someone more familiar with its use to describe or experiment with. 

All surfaces of the framing which tissue will come in contact with and ultimately adhere to get two coats of dope, lightly sanded between coats.

Starting with the lightest color tissue, in this case pale blue, pieces are cut to fit areas as large as possible while avoiding compound curves.  The tissue should be cut oversized 1/16” or left wild at edges that can be trimmed with a sharp razor or scissors after attaching. 

The 1st piece of tissue is adhered to the frame by holding in place and brushing thinner onto its surface around the perimeter where the frame members are underneath.  The thinner "wicks" through the tissue softening the dope on the frame and holds the tissue after evaporating several seconds.  When adequately dry, maybe a couple minutes, the excess tissue may be trimmed as necessary.

The 1st pieces get two coats of dope in 1/16” strips at the perimeter where the next seams will be.  Once dry the second piece of tissue is held in place overlapping the 1st by 1/16” and thinner brushed around the perimeter as already described.  The process continues until all pieces are in place.

The trickier bit for edges that, for appearance, will not have seams directly on top of any frame are treated the same: two coats of dope in 1/16” strips at the next seam.  When laying out these edges some care is taken so there are not “flaps” that will flop around preventing contact with the next piece.

I use  separate brushes for dope and thinner.  To paint the 1/16” strips of dope I have stopped using a brush altogether, instead “drawing” with a popsicle stick on edge, dipped in the dope and used as a pen.  This might be a good use for the old ruling pen which would allow longer lines to be drawn between dippings in the dope bottle.

I make no apologies for the complexity, difficulty or time required to make this dope method work and don’t doubt some steps have been left out.  It’s something one has to work up to after becoming familiar with working dope and the “swetting” method of attaching the covering.

Terry
« Last Edit: Jul 27th, 2015 at 9:35pm by terryman »  
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Reply #50 - Jul 26th, 2015 at 12:04pm

jwwasham   Offline
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Go Lemmings, Go!
Oklahoma, USA

Posts: 233
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Me too! Smiley  How about a tutorial?
 

Experience is what you get, when you don't get what you want.
"Simplify, then add lightness"  Colin Chapman
A closed mind is just a useless weight on the shoulders.
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Reply #49 - Jul 26th, 2015 at 10:56am

bigrip74   Offline
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Sky9pilot wrote on Jul 26th, 2015 at 10:14am:
She looks great Terry....I'm amazed at how you can apply the tissue like that without balsa under the seams.  I've never tried that.  I'd like more info on this process please!!!!
Sky9pilot


Terry,  I also am interested in your tissue application method.

Bob
 

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!
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Reply #48 - Jul 26th, 2015 at 10:14am

Sky9pilot   Online
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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She looks great Terry....I'm amazed at how you can apply the tissue like that without balsa under the seams.  I've never tried that.  I'd like more info on this process please!!!!
Sky9pilot
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #47 - Jul 26th, 2015 at 5:58am
RJ   Ex Member

 
Terry,

I like. Are you using stick glue to adhere the tissue?

Richard
 
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Reply #46 - Jul 25th, 2015 at 7:46pm

terryman   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Los Gatos, CA

Posts: 865
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The FW-190 camouflage covering is coming along. 

A fighter has got to be bristling with guns and canons, even if they weigh 0.4 grams plus glue.  I figure aluminum tube can be straightened when bent, assuming the the wing survives.

Terry
 

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Reply #45 - Jul 22nd, 2015 at 5:30am

NavyAD1   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!

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Absolutely beautiful!  Can't wait to see her covered.
 
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Reply #44 - Jul 22nd, 2015 at 5:06am
RJ   Ex Member

 
Very nice! ...
 
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Reply #43 - Jul 21st, 2015 at 11:07pm

terryman   Offline
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I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Los Gatos, CA

Posts: 865
****
 
Bob,

The kits canopy was lost on the original build of a few years ago.  If I had it I would make a plaster casting of it then use the plaster as a plunge mold with much thinner and lighter plastic.  Since I don't have the original I must still decide to make a mold or not.  The shape is so close to not being a compound curve I may fake it a bit and bend sheet stock. I'll know better after the tissue covering is complete and I trial fit with sheet or make a paper mock-up.

The covering has commenced on the bottom surfaces.  As I move up the camouflage will make things more difficult and slow.  On the wings I will use the very distinctive pattern used on many German WWII craft.  I wonder if there is a name for this pattern?

Terry
« Last Edit: Jul 22nd, 2015 at 12:32am by terryman »  

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Reply #42 - Jul 20th, 2015 at 10:16pm

bigrip74   Offline
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What did l do this time!
Austin, Texas

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Terry, the 190 is looking good especially the photos of the bones. Will you use the kit canopy or vac your own?

Bob
 

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!
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Reply #41 - Jul 20th, 2015 at 10:00pm

jwwasham   Offline
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Go Lemmings, Go!
Oklahoma, USA

Posts: 233
***
 
Gorgeous, Terry!  Great work. Smiley
 

Experience is what you get, when you don't get what you want.
"Simplify, then add lightness"  Colin Chapman
A closed mind is just a useless weight on the shoulders.
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Reply #40 - Jul 20th, 2015 at 8:35pm

Sky9pilot   Online
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Terry...
she's just fantastic.  Love this aircraft and you've done her proud!  I've used pink or blue insulation foam.  I had another modeler suggest Florist foam(green, easy to crush, used for arrangements) for pilots.  It's a bit easier to work and seems to be lighter.  Will need to be sealed before painting.  Recommend thinned white glue, several light coats to seal.  The body of the pilot can be hollowed out if needed to reduce the weight some. 

You can get this foam at Michaels and probably Hobby Lobby.  It also is like a sponge and holds water that's also why florist use them for their fresh flower arrangements.

Just read in the FAC Newsletter about some stuff called Balsa Foam that you can get at Michaels as well. Haven't tried this but am planning to give it a try!

Sky9pilot
« Last Edit: Jul 21st, 2015 at 3:49am by Sky9pilot »  

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #39 - Jul 20th, 2015 at 7:56pm

terryman   Offline
Senior Member
I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Los Gatos, CA

Posts: 865
****
 
The FW-190 framing is mostly complete. It's ready for sealing and covering.  Everything shown weights 11.8 grams with a lot of weight yet to be added: covering, canopy, guns, various bulges, tail wheel, etc.  I have not decided about landing gear but am leaning towards not having them and instead adding a pilot, first time I will try one.

Maybe one of our members will suggest which foam is light and workable and where to get it?  How much will he weight (just his bust)?

Terry
 

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Reply #38 - Jul 17th, 2015 at 11:43pm

Sky9pilot   Online
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Terryman...empennage is looking great.  Well done! Smiley
Sky9pilot
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #37 - Jul 17th, 2015 at 11:14pm

terryman   Offline
Senior Member
I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Los Gatos, CA

Posts: 865
****
 
The FW-190 stabiliser is sanded and the rudder is drying on the board.  A scarf joint we've discussed is used in the center of the stabilisers leading edge, barely visible and plenty strong.  The wood is all 7#, 1/16" thick.  Where the perimeter pieces are straight they are 3/32" wide,  where curved they are 1/8".  Small gussets are added at the spar to rib joints where I've had problems in the past.  Either the glue fails (bad gluing?) or the spar splits causing cupping after tissue is shrunk.  I will also use pre-shrunk tissue on the empennage to prevent warping.

Terry
 

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