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Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one) (Read 25308 times)
Reply #324 - Dec 21st, 2019 at 9:00pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Using another sized plastic tubing from the package containing assorted tubings, I choose the one that best fit the approximate size of the actuator for the landing gear strut and cut it to about the length I felt would be about right (in another words, guessed everything and question nothing).

The black electrical tape was painted white and I cut a very thin strip.

The photos should be pretty much self-explanatory.  Suffice to say, I used this technique when fabricating the Aldis gun sight on my S.E.5 and it worked pretty well.  So I figured it would do good here on the actuators.
 

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Reply #323 - Dec 21st, 2019 at 5:47pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Each wheel well has its own set of actuators.  One for the main landing gear strut and the other for the inner wheel well door.  I decided however insignificant or ridiculous it might be, I decided to fabricate both of them on the chance that they might be seen as the model sits over a mirror on display.  The actuator to the main landing gear is really hidden within the wheel well and this is the one I decided to start before common sense would intervene and prevent me from going any further.....  Roll Eyes

 
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Reply #322 - Dec 21st, 2019 at 5:36pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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I also managed to purchase a separate set of plastic tubing that was only 0.030" in diameter.  Since Evergreen has a minimum order size and I thought it would be a good idea to make the most of it by ordering all types of tubing in various sizes as well as sheets with different textures and thicknesses.  I was thinking of future modeling projects and devoted about three days of reviewing all of the kits and plans within my stash.  Getting back to this tubing, this is really small, yet still holds itself straight and true, which is what I was looking for.

I only had to lay out a strip of rod across the length of the wheel well to get a good idea of how long of a piece I would need to cut.  I then bent that piece along the main rib area and giving it a bit of extra margin to boost. 

From here, I laid it next to another piece of tubing and I could simply start cutting up about four or five lengths of tubing. 

Then it was off to the "paint shop" in the form of using a pair of pliers with a rubber band at the handle end to help keep the needle  grip closed and weighing the opposite ends to keep them from swaying from the paint spray.  I used a rattle can of silver paint.  Then I allowed them to dry.  This photo was posed, which should explain why you don't see any weights holding down the opposite ends or the table having excess silver spray.  But from this picture, you can easily get the idea what would happen if the ends were not weighed down.

Thinking ahead, there was just a couple of more details I needed to attend before committing the tubings. 
 

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Reply #321 - Dec 17th, 2019 at 11:01pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Then a small light bulb went off and it was one of those Eureka moments of slapping my forehead and saying to myself, why didn't I think of this before?

Plastic tubing.  Evergreen produces various plastic tubings of different diameters for the modeling community for years.  I had previously bought dozens of small packages before the last remaining (true) hobby store closed its doors forever.
 

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Reply #320 - Dec 17th, 2019 at 10:45pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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In my last reply # 315 on page 22, I decided to do a mixed bag of all of the wheel well interiors rolled into one, just to cover the bases, as we may say.

The reason why I pointed out some of the details of the interiors and plumbing was to illustrate my intentions to accessorize the interiors as close as (reasonably) as possible to that of BBD.   

To replicate the plumbing, I figured the use of wires of various diameters will fill bill.  Just unroll a strand and cut a length to fit the interior and go from there.  Boy, was I wrong.

Wires, no matter what I tried to do, just simply won't stay straight without some kind of tension.  The first photo shows my old strand of wire from my stash heap.  Hmmmm, maybe in very small lengths but not anything longer than say 1/2"  Too short for my wheel well interiors.

I even tried to unroll out the newer wire (red colored) by laying a foot length on a table and rolling it back and forth.  Nope.  There's always a small kink or a slight bend.  It was almost as if it was teasing me.  Yes, we detailed modelers get a bit crazy sometimes and think these materials are talking to us.

Then I tried stripping the wire off of its insulation.  Nada....  That last picture shows the bare wire after I tried to pull the ends straight and roll it back and forth.  It still retains some curves.

If nothing else, I tried this route.
 

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Reply #319 - Dec 17th, 2019 at 10:25pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Good evening everyone,

If I may one more comment in response to Sky9's observation about some of us modelers being "..familiar with cubby holes..."  I believe that all of us to some degree will become somewhat more familiar with any particular aircraft we're modeling, if nothing else by paying attention to some of the details that make up that full sized aircraft.  I could list examples but I think everyone will agree on this point.  It's almost inevitable. 

Okay, off my soapbox.. Next post, please.
 
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Reply #318 - Dec 16th, 2019 at 10:18pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Sky9,

Thank you for your reply and you're correct about the advancements on plastic kits.  They also have supplementary items in photo-etched brass that are included in the more expensive kits.  Really impressive kits that have come a long ways.  Then there are additional resin aftermarket items and custom decals and the list goes on.

Full disclosure:

I often get my inspirations and ideas from reading (& buying) several plastic magazines.  Most of them are from the U.K. 



« Last Edit: Dec 16th, 2019 at 11:54pm by Skyediamonds »  
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Reply #317 - Dec 16th, 2019 at 6:07pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Even the plastic models have come a long ways from when I was doing them.  Would have saved alot of time!!!  Unless you are very familiar with the cubby holes on aircraft most of us would be impressed and not realize that something was out of place!!!  Not counting on field mods etc.
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #316 - Dec 16th, 2019 at 5:46pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Finally, here's a plastic insert of the wheel well interiors of the "D" Mustang from a kit manufacturer that seems to be determined to feature everything imaginable shoved into the wells.  With the possible exception of the uplocks (tiny squares in the centers), hydraulic actuators for the landing gear and the inner gear doors, it appears that nothing is in order and yet everything is there. 

I must admit that the plastic modeler has everything done for him/her.  The modeler only needs to paint the overall interiors.
 

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Reply #315 - Dec 16th, 2019 at 12:37am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Before going on further, I reviewed  some research on the accessories that make up the interior of the wheel wells and lo and behold, there's more than one way to accessorize..... Oy Vey

The first picture was taken personally by me and the second photo was culled from Kermit's flying the (gorgeous)  blue-nosed Mustang.  Both planes are of the "D" variant and both photos are of the right wing wheel well of which is the subject of this posting.

The first picture depicts the wheel well with a "simplified" interior (if you could call it that), whereas the second picture shows the additional plumbing of about four lines running parallel down the length of the well.  They both also have common accessories such as electrical wiring with tie-wraps, uplocks, and hydraulic lines.

I even took several photos of plastic models and they too, offer variations of their wheel wells.  All of the "D" variant Mustang.  As you can see, the third picture shows the wheel well interiors almost bare of any detailed plumbing.  Of course with all due respect, it would have been up to the modeler to accessorize the interior rather than opting for just building the model straight out of the box.  The fourth picture shows a scratched 1/15th scale display model done by an incredibly detailed modeler, has far more detailed accessories.  However, none of the model's interiors match those of the full sized Mustangs shown in the first two photos.

So, with all that in mind and having no real solid information specifically to the Big Beautiful Doll, I decided to do a little bit of both.  Sort of a compromised mixed bag. I'm always open to suggestions and comments everyone. 

« Last Edit: Dec 16th, 2019 at 11:53am by Skyediamonds »  

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Reply #314 - Dec 14th, 2019 at 11:34pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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While all this hoopla was going on about the wheel well detailing, I decided to change tactics.  Originally, I was going to divide the undersides of the wings into three parts.  The two outer wing  panels connected to a center panel.  This made sense as I could continue detailing the interior of the wheel wells and fit much of the ribs under the surface of the wing at the wheel well outlines. 

Unfortunately, as the picture shows, the three-panel idea isn't all that cracked up to be.  So, I'm going to recut the wing sections down into just two panels: one right and one left.  Then join them at the center, just as on the full sized Mustang.

So, I'll continue my semi original course of detailing the wheel well interiors, using the wing panels you see here as patterns for me to size up the ribs and fit the plumbing; but upon completion, I'll cut out new panels.
 

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Reply #313 - Dec 7th, 2019 at 12:33pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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The next rib has already been cut, including the slots for the stringers.  In addition to marking the area where to cut out the material following the wheel well outline, I'm now eyeballing & marking where the hole should go to keep the electrical lines that will snake through, reasonably straight.  You can just notice the hole from the first rib behind it.

I haven't removed the excess area yet.  I believe I'll be needing to punch another & larger, hole to account for the plumbing.
 

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Reply #312 - Dec 7th, 2019 at 12:27pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Next, I cut the ends of the cap strips off.

Then I give it a quick shot of my version of zinc chronate out of a rattle can from Wal Mart that approximates the color and tone.

Looking at the rib after its been painted.  Not bad, eh?  I'll do better with the cap strips.  I'll pre-roll the strips over a pen or some dowel to get the kinks worked out.  At this scale, I doubt people would notice anyway, but still worth an effort to get it right.  ..... Wink

Then I trial placed it within the wheel well.  Looks nice and clean and the cuts over the interior stringers are tight, not the pyramidical cuts as the original proof-of-concept ribs..
 

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Reply #311 - Dec 7th, 2019 at 12:14pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Sky9 - not sure what you mean by building the wheel well detail and closing up the wing.  Are you suggesting I do a "drop box" method? 

NB:

I looked up your link and believe it or not I already ordered (& received" a BT-902 Rivet Master.  This was from watching another modeler on a different site perform his version of flush rivets.  If you thought I was OCD, you should visit Britmodeller.com.  This guy takes modeling to another level much higher than I.

I thank you both for your suggestions and observations.  Please keep 'em coming.  Always could use feedback.
 
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Reply #310 - Dec 7th, 2019 at 8:18am

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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

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Hi Gary - I'm on the fly this morning but need to pass along a web site I was told about in our modelling club last Wednesday and is for rivets.
Check here: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_22
Read down the right hand column for "Rosie The Riveter" tool. I'm sure you will find them too small for your needs but the pounce wheels out there today are too coarse (point to point distance too great) but the larger of these tools on this web site can easily be modified to give you a pretty close pitch by eliminating alternate teeth. Anyway, all is looking really good and glad to see you are back. I'll answer your email tomorrow when I can sit and talk.
Mike
 

"Skill comes by the constant repetition of familiar feats rather than by a few overbold attempts for which the performer is yet poorly prepared." Wilbur Wright
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