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Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one) (Read 23228 times)
Reply #341 - Jan 12th, 2020 at 10:35pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Now working on the left wing wheel well interior.  For each rib I probably made about three or four to get the slot cutouts to match the stringers.  The curved cut outs are actually pretty smooth.  The inked outlines were pretty sketchy....
 
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Reply #340 - Jan 12th, 2020 at 10:27pm

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Marc,

Thank you for that wonderful compliment.   It's greatly appreciated.  I've been following your build of the Flea and you too, have done remarkable job!  Very well done, sir.  So your compliment is coming from a modeler who knows what to look for in workmanship is really valued.

The skin, is actually made out of a combination of glossy paper and (to be added later) a metal foil with an adhesive backing.  This foil is called by its trade name, Flite Metal.  There are (now) also several other aftermarkets out there producing this foil.  So it really can't be heat treated.  I'm shooting for the Mustang to have a natural highly polished metal finish.  So covering the frame with tissue is not going to be possible.  Which is why I infilled the fuselage.

In years past, modelers used chome-backed plumber's duct tape for the simulated metal finish on their models.  Whereas its still a good source of inexpensive (read that, cheap) material to be used to simulate that natural metal finish that no amount of silver, chrome, or any of the metallic paints can duplicate, it requires a deft hand on the modeler's part to pull it off.  It also has its limitations.  Chief among them not being flexible to take compound curves, comes in only two-inch wide strips (not good for wing covering), and bubbling up under heat.

I did a lot of research, using various materials and lots of trial and error to come up with what I think is a good product that simulates the look of natural metal.  You can read up on my trials in the beginning of this build thread of the Mustang.

Flite Metal has helped many experts win Top Gun, the Nationals, and even FAI competition in the static display portion of the contests.  An F-100 Super Sabre comes immediately to my mind as one of the top contenders.   Because many modelers fly their R/C's as well as having them on display or waiting their turn for the flying portion of the competition, their models end up sitting out in the burning sun for hours at a time. 

In order to meet the requirements of maintaining its integrity, it has an extremely strong adhesive backing that will stick almost like super glue at the slightest touch. The company says it can stand temps as high as 350 degrees without bubbling or coming apart.  So it behooves us modelers to exercise due diligence when handling this foil, as I was to find out several times.  The name of the company that sells it is called Scale Aero and can easily be Googled.  If you should have any more questions/comments, I'll be glad to answer.

Getting back to the wing, this "lip" requires another added layer to the underside surface of the outer wing "skin" (glossy paper and Flite Metal foil). 

Still banging my head on the wall trying to figure out how to have two separate layers following each other's curvy wheel well outlines with one being slightly smaller than the other to reveal the overlap.
 
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Reply #339 - Jan 11th, 2020 at 5:56am

Kaintuck   Offline
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Gary..outstanding work!!!.....you have steady hands!....
You mentioned the skin following the outline....is it a skin that can be heated?...heat the edge then lay it on the wheel well?
Marc
« Last Edit: Jan 14th, 2020 at 6:32am by Kaintuck »  
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Reply #338 - Jan 10th, 2020 at 10:55pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Gentlemen,

I'm still working out the details on the interior of the wheel wells and haven't made much progress lately.  However, I'm always trying to think ahead so I can carefully plan for my next move.  At this point, I'm trying to figure out how to create the "lip" that surrounds the wheel well outline.  This "lip" allows the gear doors to slightly overlap and seal themselves in.

Any suggestions?  My covering will be Flite Metal which is the aluminum foil with a strong adhesive backing.  Once it touches the surface of anything, that's it.  It's stuck.  So I have to be really careful how to approach this method of creating this lip. 

Should I cut out a slightly smaller outline on a separate sheet of glossy paper or thin plastic sheet and carefully line it up with the outline of the underside surface?  How should I go about attaching the foil and making sure it follows the wheel well outline exactly as on the full sized aircraft?

As usual, my methods of scale modeling is always "outside the box" of easy ways of building.
 
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Reply #337 - Dec 24th, 2019 at 5:24pm

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Tom and Mike,

Wow.  Thank you guys.  You really made my day with your comments.  It's greatly appreciated. 

Right now, I'll be working on the left wing which is similar to what's been accomplished here with the different plumbing and the added landing light. 

This shouldn't take too long as most of the trials and tribulations and studying of trying to figure out how all this was going to come together was done on the right wing. 

From there, I'll mate the two wing panels and start working on the center section which will include the actuators for the inner gear doors, mating of the main spars, and (trying to) figuring out how to finish off the ceiling of the interior with the accummators, gauges, more twisted plumbing, electrical wiring, and stuff.  When I get to that point, I'll keep everyone updated. 

Merry Christmas everyone.


.
 
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Reply #336 - Dec 24th, 2019 at 8:34am

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Gary - Your work is truly great and can't wait for the reveal. If the Wright Flyer was any indication of your work, there will be another terrific model for everybody to drool over.
Mike
 

"Skill comes by the constant repetition of familiar feats rather than by a few overbold attempts for which the performer is yet poorly prepared." Wilbur Wright
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Reply #335 - Dec 22nd, 2019 at 9:56pm

Sky9pilot   Online
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Looks great!!! Smiley
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #334 - Dec 22nd, 2019 at 9:33pm

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I decided to temporarily place the underside wing skin over the wheel well to see how it all comes together.

The cut outs holding up the "plumbing" really shows up to good effect here.  The actuator is in good position.  I did not try bending the tubes as I realized that it's nearly impossible to gain access to the tubes even with needle nosed pliers and tweezers (let alone my hands) within the small confines of the interior and bend them to connect to the actuator.  I also felt any attempts would simply end up ripping the interior anyway.  The tubing will have to be pre-bent and installed with a "connector" in between. 

Looking almost directly straight down, the actuator disappears, as it should, just like on the full sized Mustang.  The plumbing really appears 3-D.  I'm glad I took the extra steps of punching out the small holes in the ribs instead of taking the easy way out and simply gluing the plumbing onto the interior ceiling and main wing spar.

Score one for OCD.....  Grin

 
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Reply #333 - Dec 22nd, 2019 at 9:21pm

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As in many other aspects of this build, I had to make adjustments and in this case, reinforce the ribs.

The first picture is posed to show what I did to reinforce the ribs.  I would have to pre-paint the brackets before gluing them to the interior wall. 

The second picture shows the final results.  The paint did a great job of helping the brackets to blend in with the interior.  You really have to zoom up and look carefully, especially the first set nearest the wheel well, to see the brackets.   Whew...  now its back for another trial.
 
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Reply #332 - Dec 22nd, 2019 at 9:13pm

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The Litmus test is when I start to run some (sample) plumbing through the ribs.  After all, it's what all the fuss is about and the extra work.

Wow.  Initially I thought this would be a piece of cake and the rest is downhill.  The small tubing just slid right through the holes and everything lined up.

Unfortunately, when I tried to bend the plastic tubes to hook up to the actuator, however easy and light they are, the ribs started to buckle and move.  Apparently, the thin ribs just glued free-standing to the interior wasn't strong enough to withstand the bending loads. 
 
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Reply #331 - Dec 22nd, 2019 at 8:58pm

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Okay.  Let's put all of this together and see what happens starting with the finished rib in my hand as in the previous post.

Starting to look like a real honest-to-goodness wheel well interior.
 
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Reply #330 - Dec 21st, 2019 at 11:07pm

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Skyper9,

Thank you, sir.  I'm hoping to achieve just that "change" you mentioned.  I won't know until the two wing panels are permanently glued together as the plumbing is dependent upon the center main rib that divides the wings under the fuselage. 

It's at this junction where the wheel is located is when we see all the plumbing start twisting every which way.  To be able to effectively match up the plumbing and the electrical conduits requires that everything be in its place and ready for me to "thread" the plumbing through the holes.  Or at least have them pre-inserted and have the excess ready for bending and twisting when the wings are joined.  I've been thinking alot on how to approach this.  Still not sure which course of action to take.


 
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Reply #329 - Dec 21st, 2019 at 11:01pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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While observing the interior wheel well and its plumbing, wiring and conduits, I noticed that much of it actually goes through the wing ribs as well as being bolted or fastened to the main spar.  At first, I thought of simply gluing the plumbing and electrical wires to the ceiling of the interior and back to the main spar.  But that little ol' OCD kicked in and said: "Wouldn't be sooo cool to have the plumbing go through the ribs just like the full sized Mustang?"  It would also add some dimension to the eye-candy as the plumbing would stick out more and for the astute observers, would really knock 'em down. 

I had already punched out some holes for the main conduits but was concerned that too many small holes might distort the fragile ribs.  As it turned out, I was wrong.

I went back to use the small punch-n-die set and used one of the smaller punches.  As the first photo shows, they can really get small and down to scale almost as if the punch was more like a pin.

The second picture shows the holes for the plumbing to pass through the ribs near the "ceiling" of the interior wheel well.   

I also took advantage of the punch set and punched in some "half-round" holes at the rear edges of the ribs to allow room for the plumbing to pass through on the main wing spar.  Looking closely, you can see the rear half-round holes for the cut outs to be made.

The last two pictures show me using an X-Acto blade and cutting out between the two half-rounds.  The last picture shows the cut out.  The picture doesn't do justice, but its really neat and tidy.
 
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Reply #328 - Dec 21st, 2019 at 10:48pm

Sky9pilot   Online
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Amazing how a small touch like that can really change the looks of things! Smiley
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #327 - Dec 21st, 2019 at 9:56pm

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First off, I noticed that area where the main landing gear strut will be located, it was just too green.  I felt it would look odd for the strut to suddenly appear out from nothing but green.  So a little bit of darkening was added here.

It really doesn't make much sense as the strut still appears out from nowhere, but at least it'll give the impression that the darkened background creates the illusion of the mechanics are too deep and hidden to be easily seen.

I didn't think that painting the whole background was necessary.  So I used a pen to denote the areas that would be seen through the rib and then brush-painted flat black.

If you compare this scene with the previous post where the actuator piston goes in to the last rib, it makes more visual sense.
 
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