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Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one) (Read 23694 times)
Reply #362 - Jan 24th, 2020 at 11:57pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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I think we are used to the dihedral we put on our Free Flight models that a scale dihedral looks flat sometimes.  Also angle of the camera can cause things to look very different.  All I have to do is take a picture of my model when I think it's done and find all the things I've forgotten!!! Roll Eyes Shocked Cheesy Wink
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #361 - Jan 24th, 2020 at 10:25pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Still, I found this photo of a Mustang on display and the wing dihedral doesn't look any more pronounced than mine.  So, maybe I'm doing alright....  Shocked
 
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Reply #360 - Jan 24th, 2020 at 12:02am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Moment of truth.  Glued the two wing panels together.  Unfortunately, despite all of my cross-checking and twice measuring, I didn't put in enough dihedral.  It's a bit low.  Sheesh...  Lessons learned, somewhere. Undecided
 
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Reply #359 - Jan 23rd, 2020 at 1:00am

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The "How To" portion of my accessorizing the fabrication and installation of hydraulic lines to the landing gear was accomplished with small diameter plastic rods which were tiny compared to the size of my fingers and thumbs but (I think)  suitably sized to scale for the simulated lines. 

I initially tried the thin slices of black electric tape that was so wonderful in the fabrication of the landing gear actuator (& many other accessories on my S.E.5 build such as the Aldis gun sight).  However for such a tiny line the tape proved to be too thick.  So I used a thin slice of notebook paper as a substitute.

I super glued one end of the slice of paper and allowed it to dry for a couple of minutes.  Then I tightly wrapped it around the rod until I felt it was about the size of the connector that was to be seen throughout the maze of plumbing.  Then super glued the end and when dried, cut off the tail with a razor.

As you can see from the third photo, the rod and paper wrap combo was quite small compared to my hands.  It should be noted I purposely installed the connector prior to bending the rod as its far easier work with while its straight.

Then it was time to cut it to length. I started on the conservative side and allowed the rod to be slightly too long.  I was taking into account for the bending of the "hydraulic line" to fit from the lines to the actuator.

I have absolutely no idea as to how the landing gear actuator is hooked up as there were no photos or drawings on the Internet or within my collection.  So I took an educated guess as to how it would be hooked up based on my observations of tractors, caterpillars, and backhoes.  I mean, how far off could that be?

I used an old hair dryer for heating the plastic rod just enough to soften it for me to bend without force and allowing it to cool as it held its shape.

From there, it was painting the paper "connector" blue -of course- and then it was a short trial of back-n-forth fitting until the bent line fitted just about right.  From there, it was super-glued into place.

This will be repeated dozens of times throughout the plumbing process with circular bends, zig zags, twists, and more,and no doubt consume a lot of time.
 
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Reply #358 - Jan 22nd, 2020 at 11:09pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Sky9,

Thank you, sir.  It's greatly appreciated.  I've already picked out the thin plastic sheet from my stash to use over the wheel well outlines to double as a "lip" and to reinforce the strength of the wing.  I thank you for that great suggestion.

Speaking of which, I've glued the two wing panels together earlier this evening.  From there, I plan on "accessorizing" the wheel wells until either it's complete, or I can't take it anymore....  Tongue
 
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Reply #357 - Jan 21st, 2020 at 10:59am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Skye...this is like adding jewelery to the overall look of the bird!!!  Accessorizing I think they call it!!! Grin Wink
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #356 - Jan 21st, 2020 at 2:16am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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I'm going to jump ahead of myself and show what my four hours have resulted.  Despite research over the Internet,  I have no idea exactly how the landing gear retraction actuators are plumbed, I'm just guessing as to how they might be from observing the landscaping machinery such as caterpillar equipment and backhoes.  I figured it couldn't be much different.

The kinked line under the razor will eventually be straightened out.  It's here just for photographic purposes.  Of course, the connectors were painted blue.....  Grin
 
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Reply #355 - Jan 21st, 2020 at 2:00am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Continuing with the wheel well detailing, I've decided to do a mixed bag of using two different full sized Mustang's wells as my source to replicate the interiors.  Logic?  None. Reasons?  Just pure artistic license since they both seem to give the best of what I'm seeking to bring out in a wheel well interior (of all things).

Soooo, without further ado. I've posted both of them here for reference.  Admittedly the first one is of the left wing as evidenced by the landing light, was decided purely because I was attracted by the parallel plumbing contrasted by the zinc chromate background.  It also featured the connectors to plumbing painted in blue that just reeks of restoration.  It also added some unusual color that is normally not considered on warbirds. Looking closely, one can also notice what appears to be copper-colored plumbing that is kinked in a zig zag fashion,  I decided to make it straight on my interior.

The second just had that artistic "buzz" that I liked with the hydraulic actuator finished off in silver with green clamps. 
 
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Reply #354 - Jan 21st, 2020 at 1:13am

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Sky9, and gentlemen,

Your idea of supplementing the underlying covering with thin plastic sheeting to serve a dual purpose of: A) adding strength where it's needed and B) to provide the "lip" around the wheel well outline is absolutely brilliant.  I'm going to actively pursue this avenue.  I'm also going to employ this idea to the wing machine bay area as well.

Yes, your idea of adding the whole area around the root should definitely be sheeted rather than just around the wheel well outlines as previously discussed. 

It provides a very simple, yet logical approach to solving my issues on the openness of the wheel well areas which just by themselves have weakened the wings at their root in addition to the cosmetic issues.

Sky9 called to my attention that no one has any idea as to how the wings looked during my revised construction, I decided it best to scroll down "memory's lane" and call back some of my older pictures to help give a good idea of what they look like and where I'm taking all this.

I also thought it best to throw in the machine gun bay area detailing done on the right wing.  I counter-balanced with some added clay to the left wing.

As you can see from the first and last pictures, near the roots, just about everything is wide open to account for the room needed for the detailing of the wheel wells.  This is where the added plastic sheeting will come in handy.  I'm also considering reinforcing the top surface as well with plastic sheeting as added insurance for strength.
 
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Reply #353 - Jan 20th, 2020 at 12:40am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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After looking at the pictures again I decided to fill in the whole sheet appearance to give a semi-accurate look at the sheet plastic.  My only concern is I don't really know what underlying structure looks like!  But you know what that is and how this could strengthen the joint of both wing panels!!!
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #352 - Jan 20th, 2020 at 12:26am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Ahhh, I get it now.  Great idea!  I'll start looking in my Evergreen stash for the appropriate thin plastic sheeting.  Excellent!  I'll see if it doesn't alter the outline too much. 

BTW, I was also thinking of the same thing of making the underside wing covering into one piece, or at least just two panels joined at the center rib.  I'm also thinking of tripling the center rib to give it added strength.

Thank you!!
 
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Reply #351 - Jan 19th, 2020 at 11:04pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Skye...I borrowed your picture and used it to describe what I was talking about. I assume that the thick paper you're using hasn't been attached to the wing structure/framework yet? So the thin plastic can be cut to shape and mounted in the wheel well without being destructive to the wing at this time.  It would remain completely out of sight and yet give the support you would need around the opening of the strut and strut cover.  The edge could stick out just enough to give the desired lip and could be painted/covered before being glued in place giving you the look you want.   
Support and look all in one solution.

As I looked at the wing panel picture you posted it came to me that it could even be made to cover both wheel wells in one piece adding strength to the wing joint in a very weak area of the skin where the inner doors  would be adding additional weakness to the openings.  Just a thought.
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #350 - Jan 19th, 2020 at 8:55pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Sky9,

Thank you very much for your reply.  I must admit I had to reread your response several times to get the idea of what you meant.  Both possibilities carry merit.  Not too sure of the first one though.  The adhesive to the foil is extremely strong, I doubt it would be possible for even heavily waxed paper to be able to slip out from under the foil unscathed.

I like the second alternative.  I'll have to run it through my mind a couple of times while sitting in front of the model.  Sounds good.

In the meantime, I'm still trying to keep the momentum going.  Decided to keep super detailing of the wheel wells to help give me some motivation.

 
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Reply #349 - Jan 16th, 2020 at 10:36am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Skye,
Is there a way to use heavily waxed stringers or teflon strips placed over that which is to be covered so the covering can be oriented over the panel to be covered and when you're ready to apply the covering slide out the strips and attach the covering.  It's kinda like the counter top covering with contact cement we used to do and then once aligned pull out the strips of wood and press down the counter top.  Hope this makes sense.

Is there a way to reinforce the bay of the wheel well flush with the structure giving the opening the desired stiffness and rigidity to stand up to the handling it might experience?  I was thinking sheet acetate or thin mil plastic sheet just to support the opening edges.
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #348 - Jan 15th, 2020 at 9:49pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Sky9, Mike, Gentlemen,

Sky9, you're correct in pointing out a question as to whether or not there was going to be any activity since I mentioned the word, "durable."   What I meant, was, if the model is being handled in any way such that the person's hands ended up holding the model from the undersides that exposes the wheel well outlines to weight or movement, that the outline (lip) wouldn't be deformed.  It is, after all, made out of nothing more than paper (thick, but still paper) and foil suspended over a large opening without any support directly underneath. 

Mike, excellent idea!  I'll go along with that.  Thank you! 

I'm assuming that the foil is already pre-cut to the smaller outline before peeling it off from the backing paper.  Is this what you mean?  From there, I would have to carefully line up the foil over the outline such that the inner and outer  outlines match perfectly.
That being the case, only need to know how to attach the foil in such a way that its strong adhesive backing doesn't prevent me from moving the foil around to its final place. 

Sort of like holding the backing paper to a decal over the general area desired, then sliding off the decal.  From there, gently moving the decal to its final place.  How can I perform this task if the foil (decal) has a strong adhesive backing such that the slightest touch makes it adhere to the surface.  The two outlines have to match perfectly.  Or is there another way?
 
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