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Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one) (Read 25307 times)
Reply #399 - Mar 2nd, 2020 at 5:12pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Skye,
You might try Callie Graphics Click Here.  Lots of the fellas in FAC are using them for the graphics on their models.  They make lots of markings for RC and Free Flight (always capitalized)... They might already have the markings you're looking for that can be scaled to the size you need!  I understand they have scaled the marking for some of the modelers on HPA!   P-51 Nomenclature
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #398 - Mar 2nd, 2020 at 3:20pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Mike,

Thank you!  Your reply is what's keeping me going.  I actually managed to finish the wheel well interiors.  Now, it's onto reworking the ailerons and their tabs into basswood to be able to take the burnishing of the foils.  I figured the balsa was too soft. 

From there, it's finishing up the cockpit.  I'm still looking for anyone who can reproduce the small stenciling in decal form for the cockpit interior at 1/15th scale.  Any takers?

 
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Reply #397 - Feb 28th, 2020 at 7:00am

New Builder   Offline
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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

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Gary - Your work is the best and very inspirational. So glad to see your posts as your inventiveness is truly great. Look forward to the next post.
Mike
 

"Skill comes by the constant repetition of familiar feats rather than by a few overbold attempts for which the performer is yet poorly prepared." Wilbur Wright
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Reply #396 - Feb 27th, 2020 at 9:15pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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The inner gear door hydraulic actuators were fashioned in my time-honored method of using plastic tubing cut to size followed by wrapping a thin slice of tape at the ends.  Then the whole thing was painted overall silver.  Some pictures show them painted overall ZC green, others had a combination of green at the ends with a silver body and more.  For simplicity's sake (& my own) I decided on using an overall silver scheme.  To many small details would, in my opinion, distract the viewer more than looking at the actuator and overall interiors.

I then added a small piece of glossy plastic to the end of the strut to simulate the bracket to hold the actuator.  You can just see it at the bottom end if you zoom up the picture.

Next, I used a piece of tape to hold the "actuator" to a long rod to help me orient the actuator into place.  I gotta admit, at this point, I'm totally guessing at the angle and hoping (praying) that I guessed right; taking into account the future placement of the gear doors and their hinge points.....  Shocked

I used good ol' Elmer's glue.  Its thick viscosity allowed me to glue both the thick ends and the body of the actuator.  I did the same thing for the other side.
 

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Reply #395 - Feb 27th, 2020 at 8:52pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Compare the photo of the wheel well interiors at the beginning stages  with the one at this point.

Despite the seemingly snail's pace, there's progress on the interior wheel wells.  It's just that there are some components that are Mustang-specific that had to be included which slowed down the overall fabrication.  It's also an example of patience and taking each step as it comes and not hurry to the finish.

As the fabrication process moved forward, the finish should be all the more rewarding in terms of quality as well as knowing the best possible efforts went into each step.  Still more to come.
 

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Reply #394 - Feb 27th, 2020 at 8:49pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Since it's impossible for me to install the plumbing and then add the connectors, or install the plumbing with the connectors and thread them through a small hole within the interior ribs, I devised a different way.

I first fabricated my (now) blue connector fitting onto one end of the pipe.  Then carefully pre-cut the length to also include the bend.

Next, I threaded the bare end of the bent rod through one of the small holes in the rib.  You can see that the plastic rod is bent in effort to clear the surrounding detail. 

At the bend, I carefully rotated the rod around to help continue threading it through the small hole until.....

I managed to pull it just enough to allow the connector to be glued onto the existing rod.

Then the remaining end was cut to length and bent closer to 90 degrees and Voila'.   one more completed plumbed line.  You can also see the hydraulic actuator installed.  I'll explain that in the following posts.

 

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Reply #393 - Feb 27th, 2020 at 8:38pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Continuing with the addition of more electrical wiring and extra plumbing and one can easily see the slow, but steady build up of the interiors.

I thought you would appreciate a unique perspective of the wheel wells.  I took a couple of close up photos and had them rotated upside down to give them the perspective of looking at the full sized Mustang.
 

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Reply #392 - Feb 23rd, 2020 at 11:27pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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My next task was to fabricate some Mustang-specific items that only an true Mustang enthusiast (fanatic?) would recognize.  From there, I would then "free-lance" out the remaining plumbing and electrical wiring.  It's actually to my advantage that there would be so many variations of wheel well interiors on just the "D" variant alone that allows me free reign.  It's just a matter of choosing what I think would be neat and cool -call it artistic license....  Wink

Here is electrical wiring.  More to come.
 

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Reply #391 - Feb 23rd, 2020 at 11:08pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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To camouflage the glue that oozed out during the gluing process of the two wing panels, a couple of inserts were painted the same color as the wheel well interior, then cut to size and glued (carefully, this time) into place.  It did a pretty good job and also helps to reinforce the center rib.

The landing gear uplocks were also installed at this time.
 

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Reply #390 - Feb 23rd, 2020 at 10:32pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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This is the wheel well interior as it stands.    If the silver colored tube on the right side appears bent, its because it is.  I noted on the full sized Mustang, this plumbing was bent to conform to the tight fit within the small area.  Sooo....
 

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Reply #389 - Feb 23rd, 2020 at 10:28pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Each tiny strip was tacked on the tube using super glue and allowed to dry all of twenty seconds.....

Then each tube was carefully wrapped.  I didn't want to overlap the strips as I wanted to simulate the metal bands being tightened to hold down the rubberized insulation.  This was the primary reason for using paper instead of the thicker black tape.
 

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Reply #388 - Feb 23rd, 2020 at 10:20pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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To get simulated adjustable metal straps, I first spray painted a piece of paper.  I tried using the electrical tape, but it turned out to be too thick for this part of the project.

This was the tricky part.  After the paint dried, I cut very thin strips off of the paper using a pair of scissors.  What's so tricky?  The last picture shows how thin the strips were cut in order to get the scale size. 

I should point out that my common theme in most, if not all my models is to use whatever available household tools and goods laying around.
 

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Reply #387 - Feb 23rd, 2020 at 10:07pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Gentlemen,

Good evening.  I decided to post a few photos of my approach to fabricating those large pipes we've seen in the photos of both the real Mustang and the model.  They were colored blue, copper, white and silver.  On this note, I spray painted each different sized plastic tubing their respective color. 

I decided to replicate the black rubber insulation material by using (what else?) black electrical tape.  I peeled off a section of black tape and laid it down on a plate glass used specifically for cutting tapes, small plastic items and fine paper.  A straight edged metal ruler and razor was used to cut a strip that approximated the size needed for the simulated rubber insulation.

I used Evergreen Plastrut for the simulated plumbing.  They also sell packages that feature a few plastic tubes of each different size.  It was from this pack that I used.   Each tube was spray painted their respective color and cut to size prior to adding the tape.
 

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Reply #386 - Feb 15th, 2020 at 2:01am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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News:

The reservoir that I worked on the past week turned out too large for the scale wheel well interior.  The bottom of the fittings were sticking out of the wheel well outlines and the body of the reservoir was too fat.  If you zoom in on the the enclosed photo,  it shows its too big for the center rib and the dial.  I'm fabricating another one as I write this test.

You can compare this with my previous reply # 383 that shows the full sized reservoir mounted on the center rib. Unfortunately, due to its small size, I won't be able to detail it as much as the first one.  At least it'll be close enough to fit in the overall interiors.  From here, the electrical harnesses and then the plumbing.

Lessons learned..... sigh.
 

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Reply #385 - Feb 12th, 2020 at 11:22pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Going to jump ahead of myself here and explain why I changed the background cutout near the leading edge of the wing from black to ZC green.  When I placed the faux hydraulic lines into their respective places, the black electrical tape used to simulate the black rubberized insulation would disappear in the background. 

Since it was already glued in place, I just hand brushed the ZC green over the black.  Took about three coats. 

Looking at the photo of the right side cutout, I think the hydraulic lines are a bit too thick.  I'm thinking maybe I'll thin one or two of them out.  Comments?

I just modified my post to include a couple of photos of the full sized interiors for comparison.  As of this writing, the plumbing have not been glued in place.

Gettin' thar.....
« Last Edit: Feb 15th, 2020 at 1:42am by Skyediamonds »  

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