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2018-2019 Fall Cookup Whitman/Ott &/or Peanut Scal (Read 48893 times)
Reply #784 - May 30th, 2019 at 11:12pm

neoflight   Offline
Full Member
...now how am I gonna
get that down!
West Tennessee

Posts: 201
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Seeing the J2M2 Raiden by itself, it always gave me the impression of being somewhat small. Here are a couple of pics that show her compared to other planes and pilot.

Neoflight

 
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Reply #783 - May 30th, 2019 at 10:47pm

neoflight   Offline
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...now how am I gonna
get that down!
West Tennessee

Posts: 201
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Absolute stunning Tom Smiley Smiley Smiley The finishing yellow scheme and particularly the hinomaru's, complete the snap! Again, Tom, you've not failed to impress.

Neoflight
 
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Reply #782 - May 30th, 2019 at 10:41pm

bigrip74   Offline
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What did l do this time!
Austin, Texas

Posts: 6043
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OK! I want one (but I don't want to build it). These photos really show how good looking she is.

Bob
 

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!
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Reply #781 - May 30th, 2019 at 9:09pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
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Well I followed the plans instructions for the hinomaru markings on the plan...cut out from thin paper.  I cut out the white circles from bond paper and the red circle from red tissue and tried to make sure the red was centered on the white with thinned white glue and then used the thinned white glue to attach them to the Jack! Also got the leading edge yellow strips applied and now I need to finish the canopy and panel lines and the Jack will be completed!  My first plug for the spinner is a bit too large so I'll sand that down further and plunge mold another spinner.  Looks like I'll have the opportunity try my hand at fitting the prop to the spinner.
Sky9pilot
 

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If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #780 - May 30th, 2019 at 12:26pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
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Nope...just found a pic on the internet.  Liked the bright colors...was really tempted to go with prototype orange all over but decided against that scheme with Bob's help.

Did some research this morning and found this info: A review of the Tamiya 1/48 scale J2M3 plastic model by Jonathan Prestidge--"Then, while perusing a color profile book at the local Borders, I happened upon a yellow-nosed Raiden with cool yellow “gills” and a white band around the fuselage. The plane was part of the famous 302 Flying Group based out of Atsugi between March 1944 and August 1945. It was still green over gray but it was enough to get me motivated. I purchased the book and decided to finish the Raiden. Now I must say, as much as I enjoy my color profile book, some of the profiles are fanciful at best. I would not have proceeded with my chosen paint scheme had I not seen another finished model of this same aircraft on J-aircraft.com. The builder of that model claimed to have seen an actual picture of the plane. I decided to use the color profile as a loose guide, applying the added color over the standard J2M3 colors." (the picture I saw used a yellow band instead of white around the fuselage.) Here's a link for more history and details: Click Here
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #779 - May 30th, 2019 at 11:04am

neoflight   Offline
Full Member
...now how am I gonna
get that down!
West Tennessee

Posts: 201
***
 
Very well executed. Love the paint scheme. Tom! Do you have any history on the colour scheme? Any purpose the IJNAF had with the vertical stripe on the forward portion on the nose?
Great job.

Neoflight
 
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Reply #778 - May 29th, 2019 at 9:01pm

bigrip74   Offline
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What did l do this time!
Austin, Texas

Posts: 6043
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Been there and still doing that Grin

The Raden is looking really good with color on her.

Bob
 

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!
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Reply #777 - May 29th, 2019 at 8:27pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
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Ok...I became 13 again and just whipped out the acrylic paint and started painting with some Frog Yellow masking tape for edges.  Wasn't till I'd painted the cowl, strip and wingtips that I realized I hadn't sealed the tissue with Krylon Crystal Clear!!!! Embarrassed Shocked Roll Eyes Wink
I also managed to put in the motor anchor and hardened the balsa with thin cyano...
Added the chin scoop and all I have to do to finish up things is the leading edge yellow strips and the canopy.  I am liking the looks but I'd like it a bit bigger...maybe Dave Ree's 27" Jack down the road a piece.  O yes, tissue around the horizontal stab...and a few panel lines with a fine Sharpie!
Here's the pics...
 

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If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #776 - May 29th, 2019 at 2:10pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
*****
 
Well it has been a while since building alright...can you believe I forgot to add a motor anchor in the fuselage of the Jack?   It just came to me while I was sleeping last night!  Can't believe I did this!!!  Oh well, I'll just cut out a panel in the tissue and to the necessary repairs...

As for prop I was thinking of going with the ROT 5" prop.  I think I'll make one similar to the one I used on the Roland Walfisch. If I get lazy and have one in my stash that's 5" I might go with it.  I'm getting the itch to finish this one quickly and get back to the U-2 I started a while back. 
Tom
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #775 - May 29th, 2019 at 10:21am

bigrip74   Offline
Administrator
What did l do this time!
Austin, Texas

Posts: 6043
*****
 
I always thought the real a/c looked PORKY could not bring myself to model one in plastic.

Tom, what size prop and thrust button will you use?

Bob
 

IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT!
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Reply #774 - May 29th, 2019 at 9:53am

pb_guy   Offline
Senior Member
So I'm just a kid at heart.
Youbou, BC, Vancouver Island

Posts: 1464
****
 
Good rendition of this aircraft Tom. The design looks a bit porky because the wings look too small for the aircraft, but that just adds to the appeal of uniqueness.
  As to ribs and formers showing through the tissue. This will always be a problem to consider. The light balsa will contrast with the tissue covering it. I have found that the best way (for me) to minimize this without adding weight is by 'coloring' the balsa with a felt marker of a close match to the covering tissue. It is not perfect, and the supporting structures will still be visible, but it does make a difference.
ian
 
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Reply #773 - May 28th, 2019 at 11:16pm

neoflight   Offline
Full Member
...now how am I gonna
get that down!
West Tennessee

Posts: 201
***
 
No...no! Please, I enjoy all the info. You're not being lengthy at all. I remember years ago talking for hours at our local IPMS club meeting on the best way to drop split flaps on a bf 109-G6.

Neoflight
 
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Reply #772 - May 28th, 2019 at 11:05pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
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The ribs will show through most tissues whether glue stick was applied or not.  I'm not sure the glue stick makes the ribs more prominent, I think it has to do with the wing construction type.  The Ace Whitman wing ribs are semi-symmetrical and the leading edge is not as rounded with the L.E. 1/8"X1/16" recessed into the tip of the ribs leaving the rib noses proud above and below the L.E. thereby making the ribs more prominent. Other types of construction use a square L.E. 1/16", 3/32" or 1/8" balsa which is rounded into the top and bottom of the rib noses and making a more rounded area for the tissue to follow.  Sorry for getting so lengthy. Shocked Cheesy Wink

I completed the wing fairing with tissue the way that I assumed the modeler of the time would do.  I'm not as pleased but it's just straight tissue to cover the gaps and smoothed as best I could.  I used a couple strips of tissue to give the area some more strength.  Pics to follow...
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #771 - May 28th, 2019 at 10:16pm

neoflight   Offline
Full Member
...now how am I gonna
get that down!
West Tennessee

Posts: 201
***
 
Thanks for the info, Tom. Am I correct in thinking that the ribs wont be so noticable if the glue stick is not applied? I too usually apply to all ribs, afraid it might not shrink correctly.

Neoflight
 
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Reply #770 - May 28th, 2019 at 12:27pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 10919
*****
 
The tissue is Easy Built tissue.  The grain of the tissue sheet can be determined by tearing the corner a short distance.  If it tears ragged, the grain runs the other direction.  If it tears fairly straight, that's the direction of the grain. 

Here's an article with pics from Easy Built explaining grain in tissue.

Usually tissue is applied on wings with the grain running from root to tip.  Lots of modelers run the grain on the fuselage similarly with the grain running from nose to tail.  I personally usually run the grain vertically on the fuselage side. I usually apply it wet to the fuselage.  I will vary the wet application on the wings depending on the wing style.  Sometimes applying it wet and sometimes dry.  Esaki is easier to apply wet than the Easy Built Tissue for me, although I've applied Easy Built wet too.  Just have to see how it goes with each model.  I tend to apply glue stick to all the structure on the wings and fuselage.  Some will only apply the glue stick on the perimeter, especially wings and stabs.  Just my preference.
 


If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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