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TOM AKERY PLANS COOKUP? (Read 23773 times)
Reply #342 - Oct 1st, 2019 at 7:33am

New Builder   Offline
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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

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You are absolutely right, it is supposed to be fun but my quest for self-improvement does get in the way that's why there was a two week break to get my "mojo" back. All is well now and the fun returned when I started rebuilding the wing breaks and the center section. I'm also a subscriber to the five P principle but there are those times when...
Mike
 

"Skill comes by the constant repetition of familiar feats rather than by a few overbold attempts for which the performer is yet poorly prepared." Wilbur Wright
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Reply #341 - Sep 30th, 2019 at 10:12am

alfakilo   Online
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

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New Builder wrote on Sep 29th, 2019 at 7:29am:
...the wing saddle has been reworked twice to get the wing to even remotely fit properly.


Building a kit or scratchbuilding from a plan, no matter. I think one of the major irritants is getting a wing to fit. If we are trying to add a little incidence that can leave the trailing edge hanging below the bottom contour or conversely, have the leading edge a little higher than it should look.

The Five Ps is always a good idea! That and a lot of patience! Sometimes the urge to chuck it is huge...then it's time for a break!! This is supposed to be fun!
 
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Reply #340 - Sep 30th, 2019 at 9:28am

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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

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Decided to repair the center section as well since it contains the spars and the ribs that match the wings. It was a bit embarrassing to see how out of square the ribs were however the correction is well under way.
Mike
 

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Repairing_Center_Section.jpg

"Skill comes by the constant repetition of familiar feats rather than by a few overbold attempts for which the performer is yet poorly prepared." Wilbur Wright
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Reply #339 - Sep 29th, 2019 at 7:29am

New Builder   Offline
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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1214
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AK - Your note was right on target as the same thing happened to my Interstate Cadet with the wing panels joining rib bending in. Had to strip the tissue there and add a rib to the offending rib to get it back into alignment. My plan is for the solid rib on the wing panel to be 3/32 and maybe same for the center section. I really need this wing since the wing saddle has been reworked twice to get the wing to even remotely fit properly. This plane has been a test from the beginning, at one point I was standing over the garage garbage can with the fuselage in hand but thought better of that plan, that was not the way to go, can't give up that easily.
Mike
 

"Skill comes by the constant repetition of familiar feats rather than by a few overbold attempts for which the performer is yet poorly prepared." Wilbur Wright
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Reply #338 - Sep 28th, 2019 at 8:17pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Good point Ak...especially if your rib balsa is very soft and light...which is what we try to do, build light. A solid sheet rib on the center section each side would help to eliminate that.  Smiley
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #337 - Sep 28th, 2019 at 1:50pm

alfakilo   Online
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St Louis, MO

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One note of caution regarding shrinking the tissue on split or cracked rib wings. I just had this happen to the P-75 wings where the outer panel joins the center section.

The tissue shrank and pulled the top of the end ribs slightly bowed inwards. The result is a lousy joint when joining the panels. I fixed this by gluing a 1/16" strip along the top of the rib and then sanding to fit.

I'll borrow your picture to show what I mean:
 

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wing_fit.jpg
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Reply #336 - Sep 28th, 2019 at 11:07am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Looks like you're in good shape with the current wing.  Just rebuild the center section and take off the upper outer ribs and sand the spars to the needed dihedral. Replace the outer ribs with solid ribs and then glue the outer panels to the solid ribs. Here's a low tech process if you're wondering how to set the angle... take a strip of cardboard etc. the length of the outer panel and pin it to some balsa you can pin to the board.  Raise one end to the desired dihedral and jig it in place so you can take a 90* angle and mark the lower end with a vertical line. Once this has been done you'll have the angle you need to sand the spars to.  Just cut the vertical line (now at the proper angle) chop off the unnecessary length and you have a template you can use by flipping it over and use to measure the line on each spar of the center section on each side.  Hope this makes sense. I'll draw up a quick and dirty illustration in a few minutes and post it with this post.  If you flip the strip of cardboard (etc.) top edge to bottom edge you'll have the angel for the center spars. Mark each side and sand to mark.
 

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angle_tool.JPG

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #335 - Sep 28th, 2019 at 10:51am

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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

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After about two weeks of not wanting to touch any of my planes or plans, went to work this morning and cut the wing apart to add dihedral and will now be making a cracked rib wing. It was simply too fragile for any more work but an interesting exercise nonetheless.
Mike
 

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Wing_Apart.jpg

"Skill comes by the constant repetition of familiar feats rather than by a few overbold attempts for which the performer is yet poorly prepared." Wilbur Wright
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Reply #334 - Sep 16th, 2019 at 7:00pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Well...Alfakilo's Dime Scale build has inspired me to try a new contra-rotating prop model of the Fisher P-75A the further development of the XP-75 and was produced to a small degree.  The contract was cancelled following WWII.  So here's my version of the Fisher P-75A.
Check out Alfakilo's Dime Scale build here: Click Here
Tom
« Last Edit: Sep 19th, 2019 at 6:12pm by Sky9pilot »  

fisher_P-75A_edit.PDF (845 KB | 34 )

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #333 - Sep 15th, 2019 at 9:14am

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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

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Tom - thank for the guidance and I already had paper tubes made up following your earlier post. The problem came originally when I sanded the cowl and the longerons came through. I filled those holes and started over. I'll cut a smaller slot to start with and enlarge it to fit the tubes as you suggested and using the file rather than the drill will probably work much better. Thanks again for the guidance.
Mike
 

"Skill comes by the constant repetition of familiar feats rather than by a few overbold attempts for which the performer is yet poorly prepared." Wilbur Wright
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Reply #332 - Sep 14th, 2019 at 11:13pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Congrats on the Marmalade!  Just checking on the prop...figured you had that in hand. Smiley
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #331 - Sep 14th, 2019 at 8:23pm

pb_guy   Offline
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So I'm just a kid at heart.
Youbou, BC, Vancouver Island

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Actually, Tom, the prop was just for show so that I could put the plane in our local fair (won 4th place, but my Seville Orange Marmalade took first). I have selected some clear plastic to make a lighter pusher prop. I still need to add some nose weight.
ian
 
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Reply #330 - Sep 14th, 2019 at 4:53pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Ian...love your X-1...just not certain about your red prop???  Did you modify it to be a pusher?  The whole ramp device won't work for a pusher on the original prop.  To make it a pusher you'd have to file the ramp off the front and make a flat bearing surface and construct some kind of ramp or free wheeling device for the reverse of the prop...just a thought!

Mike...might I suggest you fill the squares in the cowling and then cut narrow slots just big enough for paper tubes to slide into with a rounded edge in the front of the narrow slots (a round file is very handy for this). I show how to make paper tubes using white glue and bond paper wrapped around a toothpick, dowel or bamboo skewer for size needed. In the Building Tutorials for Beginners and Experienced Modelers: Click Here
Once glued in you can use a razor blade to trim the tubes leaving a nice gun trough.
 

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gun_ports_sheeting_1_001.jpg

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #329 - Sep 14th, 2019 at 9:00am

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Amherstburg, Ontario, Canada

Posts: 1214
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After many days away, got some time to work on the Fang and got out my trusty pin vise and started to drill out the gun ports and the drill found some loose balsa and went astray so I went to the other side and same thing. Beginning to think I'm being punished for some transgression. Also spent some time reworking the wing saddle as the detail disappeared when the enlargement was made and so I went with my best idea at the time and I made the wing in the sliced rib method so it was slightly?? different than the saddle. This is turning out to be an exercise in body work than balsa construction but I will prevail.
Mike   
 

(90 KB | 21 )
Gun_Port_Redo.jpg

"Skill comes by the constant repetition of familiar feats rather than by a few overbold attempts for which the performer is yet poorly prepared." Wilbur Wright
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Reply #328 - Sep 4th, 2019 at 12:50pm

pb_guy   Offline
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So I'm just a kid at heart.
Youbou, BC, Vancouver Island

Posts: 1591
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Thanks all. I really like the effect of coloring the underlying balsa structure with felt pens. It has made a big difference on the last few models I have built, and I highly recommend it as it adds almost no weight at all.
ian
 
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