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P-38 Lightning 1st static build (Read 2314 times)
Reply #48 - Mar 6th, 2020 at 3:03am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Ditto what Skyediamonds said! Smiley
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #47 - Mar 4th, 2020 at 11:47pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Reno, Nevada

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ib:

No need to apologize.  There will be times when everyone has literally allowed weeks and months go by without building or even posting.  Take your time and know we're here for you.  Your personal life and obligations will always come first.  Just relax and know this is first and foremost a hobby and restful pastime.

The nacelles look great.  Glad to hear of your progress.  Whatever methods you decide to choose, is fine with me (& I'm sure I speak for the rest of us).  It's your model and your hobby.  Make it yours.....  Cheesy
 
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Reply #46 - Mar 3rd, 2020 at 5:56pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 26
 
Thank you for the photos and am considering this course for main wing but am going to continue with infill for the pod and booms. Ran into an issue where the dihedral and slight concave curvature on the underside of the main wing will require some shim work to create a good fit. Sorry about the lengthy time between posts. I haven't stopped the build but did take some time away on a family matter. I will be posting more photos as well. Apparently the photos I had previously taken on the boom construction have mysteriously disappeared from my phone. I apologize letting my 2 1/2 year-old play with my phone lol🤦🏻‍♂️!
 

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Reply #45 - Feb 5th, 2020 at 11:51pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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ib:
Enclosed, you'll see the type of paper I was talking about.  I purposely took these photos to illustrate the plastic laminations over the paper.  There are several different grades to choose from.  It's just a matter of picking out the grade that best suits you.

As the last picture shows, they also come in different sizes. 

Hope all this helps.
 

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Reply #44 - Feb 5th, 2020 at 1:46am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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ib:

Very valid questions.  Shows you're thinking two or three steps ahead of the build.  This is exactly the correct (& mind-numbing) thing to do whenever you're building "outside of the box."   Really impressed!!  This is where a lot of thinking (agonizing) goes on.  Ask me.

From my perspective, you've already (did a masterful job) of framing up the wings.  You're now at the decision point as to which way to cover.  Should you go the tissue route or use something more solid that will give off a realistic look as opposed to a skeletal appearance.

You have a number of options:

You can infill, but that's a lot of work and sanding, then filling in with a compound between the gaps and grains, then priming, and the list goes on.

The other option is to do what I'm doing with my Mustang project and sheet using thin sheets of glossy paper with a thin laminate of plastic instead of balsa wood.  The paper/plastic will be thin enough to mitigate the potential fit issues (not  completely, but enough to make it easier).  The "paplastic" also saves you lots of hassles of sanding and fitting because its already very thin.  It's also smooth & ready to paint.  You only need to scribe panel lines with a black ball point pen.  If you're so inclined to go a bit more in the detailing route, you can use a "pounce wheel" for making simulated rivets.  The pounce wheel is a small hand-held tool that sort of looks like a really bad pizza cutter.  See the enclosed photo

This "paplastic" sheet is what you see as "plate matts" on top of a desk in say, a bank, or restaurant displaying bank services or menu.  It's around, you just have to look. 

Prior to installing the "paplastic" sheets:  carefully cut them to the exact size needed to fit that section of the wing panel.  Instead of sanding down the balsa leading edge smooth, allow the leading edge to "stick" out above the rib outlines to account for the plastic thickness.  If you've already sanded down the leading edge, that's okay.  Just carefully sand down the ribs at the part where they butt up against the balsa leading edge.  This sanding down of the ribs only needs to go back about 1/2" from the leading edge, so you don't have to sand the whole ribs.  Because the plastic sheet is so thin, you only need to gently "touch" sand the ribs.  It doesn't  take much to lower the rib profiles enough to compensate for the plastic "skin."  Butt against the leading edge with the plastic sheet (or you can use laminated glossy paper instead of plastic) and feather out the sheets along the trailing edge. 

The thin sheets of plastic can come in large sizes.  They're easily obtained from local arts and crafts stores.  I don't know if Wal Mart has them. 

The only "hard part" is carefully fitting the plastic to the exact size and outline of that particular wing panel section.  In this case, you can use sheets of scrap paper.  You may end up using several "templates" until you get it just right.  Then simply trace the outline to the plastic.  I've enclosed a "few" sample pictures of my efforts  of covering the wing.  In this case, a practice wing section but you get the idea.  The silver paint was used to help determine how it contrasted with Flite Metal.  You don't have to use the foil

Once the plastic sheet has been cut and carefully trial-fitted to the exact size of the wing panel, use a ruler or straight edge and black ball point pen for the simulated paneling.  Gently press down on the plastic for that "depth" look.  You may wish to practice on some scrap first.

From there, you can either install the plastic sheet "as is" or add some rivet detail as described.  For the paneling and riveting detail, you'll need some reference photos, drawings or a small plastic model to help you determine where the paneling outlines go.  It's  only after you've finished pressing down with the ball point pen and/or pressing down with the pounce wheel, should you then glue the plastic sheet to the frame.  To do all of this pressing down while it's  on the frame will risk breaking the balsa frame.

Getting back to the balsa sheeting.  For the outer panels, you can sheet as usual.  Just use some Spackling Compound to help feather in the plastic sections to the wing.  You can sand down the panel sheet, but be careful.  Most likely you won't know how far you've gone down until its too late and the ribs start peeking through.

For the tail feathers, I'm using solid 1/4" balsa for my Mustang, so it's just a matter of personal choice.  The added thickness to account for the airfoil in the middle and its tapered toward the leading & trailing edge

I know I've mentioned this sheeting method before, but since you're already going "outside the box" with the sheeting, I'm thinking you might as well make it as easy and convenient as possible with less sanding, filling, sanding, priming, etc., prior to paint
 

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Reply #43 - Feb 4th, 2020 at 7:18am

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 26
 
I do have a question for you on sheeting the wing. Since sheeting will increase the thickness of the wing should I infill the sections attaching the center pod and booms or just go to town and sand halfway through the stringers to account for sheeting?? I am assuming sheeting will cause a fit differential with the pod and boom sections. Also if thickness is going to become an issue should I forego the scale version of the tail feathers for the solid sheet outline ??
 
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Reply #42 - Feb 4th, 2020 at 12:37am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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ib:
Beautiful set of wings!  If you're sheeting, let me know if you need any suggestions,  otherwise I'll just sit back and relax and enjoy the show.

You've done great!
 
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Reply #41 - Jan 30th, 2020 at 6:38pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 26
 
Have done some work on the main wings since those must be finished and attached before I can complete work on the center pod. Cockpit, under carriage, wing fillets are all plastic and the cockpit center section is all one piece. I plan on covering the wings with thin sheet so there will be lots of sanding to reduce the wing thickness to accept the sheeting. Also going to use strip balsa for the leading edge as it seems the kit supplied sticks are basically fossilized oak beams Grin!! Easier to build up and shape that way. Not sure how thin my sheeting can get so will check out Hobby Lobby on my days off to see what I can conjure up. Had thought about using thick sheet for the tail feathers since the model won't be flying but then decided I would rather enjoy working with all those little bits and pieces to  practice my techniques. Ok ok I enjoy all those little fiddley bits!
 

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Reply #40 - Jan 20th, 2020 at 12:23am

Skyediamonds   Offline
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If it'll help any, you're doing a great job on the detailing of the cockpit interior and really impressive nose gear.  Couldn't do better myself.

Skye
 
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Reply #39 - Jan 19th, 2020 at 10:40pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 11462
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Roll Eyes Grin Cheesy Wink Cool
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #38 - Jan 19th, 2020 at 10:09pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 26
 
I do have a dremel but currently it is residing somewhere in the depths of my garage without the needed cutoff wheel as I seem to have lost all the accessories somewhere. Thank you for reminding me about the dremel though I completely forgot I had one!! Roll Eyes Note to self.....start regimen of ginkgo biloba!!
 
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Reply #37 - Jan 19th, 2020 at 8:13pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 11462
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You need a cordless dremel cutoff wheel setup.
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #36 - Jan 19th, 2020 at 6:28pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 26
 
Sky9pilot...Yes, there is a wire axle installed that is removable for me to be able to remove the retractable gear and will do so when I am ready to install the card stock bay. Though in the kit there is no bottom to the bay I believe I am going to at least attempt to install one though that may depend on the action of the gear whether that will be able to be added. Tried to adjust the gear but apparently my trusty worn out needle nose couldn't handle the wire and was unable to clip off the needed 1/4 inch on the lock down wire. Sigh! Now it's time to purchase new wire cutters at the nearest truck stop which of course doubles the price automatically and the quality will be dubious at best. Embarrassed
 
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Reply #35 - Jan 19th, 2020 at 4:49pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 11462
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Will the gear be removable for free access to the various components of the plane for finish?
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #34 - Jan 19th, 2020 at 11:36am

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 26
 
Thanks Sky9....I thought about adding some white to the strut but the more I think about it that would not have been incorporated in a wartime situation. Sticking with what I have but will add some highlights as you suggested. Finalizing the fit of the nose gear and looking for an old pen to deconstruct to use the ink tube for an axle of sorts on the strut. Going ahead with gluing on the nose cowl but stuck on whether to paint the plastic parts or cover with flite metal. Painting them would result in a different look than the metal when finished. All that's left is some adjustment on the nose gear before final install and then on to wing construction finally!!
 

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