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P-38 Lightning 1st static build (Read 1810 times)
Reply #15 - Nov 30th, 2019 at 7:48pm

Skyediamonds   Offline
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Enjoying life and all
aspects of modeling
Reno, Nevada

Posts: 2599
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ibscrooge:

I used to drive big 18-wheelers for about 30 years and lived in a Freightliner full time for almost 7 years.  At one point, I actually came close to modeling out of the rig by purchasing some dry wall and having it cut to about 3/4 the size of my upper bunk.  From there, when not driving or on duty, I would bring down my "work table" and work on my model.  It never came to pass but that's how I was going to approach my modeling project.  So I know exactly what you're going through and your way of doing things model-wise. You (& Thymekiller) sure have my respect!

I apologize to Tom and everyone in advance for my absence on this site, I've had some family and health issues that basically altered my life.  I'm still struggling with them, but so far things are (somewhat ) stable.  So, I'm optimistic that I can participate more frequently now.

ib: you indicated you're thinking of using soda cans for a metallic effect.  That seems to suggest your desire to have a solid surface with a metallic finish as on a full sized P-38.  My strong advice; don't!  The Guillow's skeletal structure -made from fragile 1/16th  balsa- would not be able to take the stress of the thin pieces of metal.  Besides soda cans (aluminum) is far too thick anyway.  You would need something much more thinner that comes close to that of stiff paper.  There are sheets of brass and aluminum that can easily be obtained from arts and crafts stores, if that's truly the way you wish to go.  I know litho plates are also used for covering to simulate sheet metal, but again,  all of the above listed sheets of metal are far too thick for Guillow's framework; even if they were annealed. 

I'm currently building a Mustang (you can see my build thread under "Yep, another Mustang" ) and my goal is to have it done in a high polished metal finish.  It's in this build thread, you'll find I've done a lot of experimentation with various covers and films.  This is what consumed most of my building time, but I'm glad I did it because I was able to answer my own questions and share the results with everyone here at S&T.  So maybe this will help address your own goals.

As with all things in Life: you have choices.  You can easily grab a rattle can of silver or some kind of chrome metallic finish and simply spray the model.  You will yield a very good metallic finish but over a tissue-covered model, which may or may not satisfy your goals.  Or, you can set yourself up for a longer build time and infill the structure.  It can be tedious and trying at times. but with due diligence and patience, you can achieve incredible results. This is the way I approached my project. 

Not to discourage you, as I only had to infill the fuselage.  The tail feathers were made from solid 1/8" thick balsa sheet (since the model is for display anyway), so no infilling there.  The wings are to be covered with a thin plastic sheet  that I cut out to fit the exact outline of the wings plus a little extra overlap to wrap around the leading edges (easily obtained from arts and crafts stores, if you don't have a fixed mailing address where you can receive packages).  The wings really don't have many compound curves so the cutting and fitting of glossy paper or thin plastic is easy.  Just make two pieces; one for the top and one for the underside.

Now, you're asking "Okay, what about the metallic finish?"  That's where the thin peel-back films come in.  They generally come in rolls of 24" in width and range from 10 feet in length onward depending upon your requirements.  In a nutshell, all you do, is cut a piece to the size you want, (carefully) peel off the backing paper and simply stick it to the desired surface.  It's obviously far more detailed than that, but in essence, it's just what I described. 

I used that word "carefully" in parenthesis because if you peel back too fast or too hard, you can create wrinkles on the finished film that not even an Act of Congress can overcome. 

As a bonus, you can add rivets by simply taking a dull point (T-pin or awl) and using a ruler for exact spacing, push either from the backside for domed rivets or from the finished side for flush rivets.  For flush rivets, you can also use a slightly sharpened very small brass tube say, 1/16" in diameter and push it on the top (finish) surface for flush rivets too.  There's also a short cut to this by using what is called a pounce wheel.  It resembles a pizza cutter but without the smooth razor sharp edges.  Instead, it has small serrated edges around the wheel.  Just simply run it alongside the ruler on either side of the film for the same desired rivet effects.  You can easily see this on my build thread.

I experimented with chrome vinyl & peel-back aluminum (there are now 2-3 different brands).  The one I settled on is called " Flite Metal."   It's all there under my build thread if you wish to visit it.  I encourage you to see it.  I'll be adding more stuff now that I'm back.

Cheers
 
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Reply #14 - Nov 28th, 2019 at 12:24pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 25
 
Wow I admit that fill in is a tedious process.....somebody please tell me it is worth it lol! Had a crazy thought to try using soda cans as covering for the aluminum look and has anyone tried this?? Getting ready to dissect the opening for the nose gear today.
 
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Reply #13 - Nov 7th, 2019 at 9:52pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Looking good!  A little at a time is a great way to enjoy this hobby! Smiley
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #12 - Nov 7th, 2019 at 6:51pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 25
 
Slow and steady got a little bit done. Had to move B5 to the rear about 1/4 inch hopefully this won’t affect anything. The 4-blade prop is for a future Razorback project scratch build. As a “what would happen if “  I bashed the two props from this kit together to create a prop for the Jug😎. If it isn’t broken you can bet I will find a way to break it  ;
 
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Reply #11 - Nov 4th, 2019 at 7:07pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 25
 
Wow..... I have no words!!! Thank you for doing this. I do have some other photos of his to go through and I am hoping to find a more suitable side angle to get numbers. He was kind enough to date and lable the photos on the back of who was in the photos but neglected to mention names don’t know if that was on purpose or not due to wartime strictures? Thank you again for the great rendition Sky9pilot!!!
 
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Reply #10 - Nov 4th, 2019 at 1:52pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Here's my attempt at recreating the nose art on the P-38 from the fuzzy picture.
Sky9pilot
 

p_38_skull_copy.jpg (61 KB | 25 )
p_38_skull_copy.jpg

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #9 - Nov 4th, 2019 at 11:30am

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 25
 
Already have found several fit discrepancies between the parts and the major one being B-5 not fitting either the plan or model meaning I am going to have to adjust the part by cut and fit. At least the side keel seems to fit straight without waves. Slots for the keels and other parts leave something to be desired but will soldier on. Using shims on the keel slots.
 
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Reply #8 - Oct 29th, 2019 at 11:31am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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From the pics...it looks like it's bare metal with an olive drab or black anti-glare panel on nose in front of cockpit.  It's a shame you don't have any pics of the full side view of the aircraft.
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #7 - Oct 28th, 2019 at 10:01pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 25
 
Thank you Sky Pilot for rotating the photos don’t know how I botched it up. I have been trying to research the nose art to find out who the pilot was but haven’t had any luck yet. I would like to also be able to get the colors and insignia tail numbers and color scheme since this is all black and white photos. If anyone has any ideas on this please let me know! I could almost guess that it would be green with black on top but there were also some that were tan as well and so hard to tell from photos from 1944. I have also been told that I need to pay more attention to my wife’s side of the family since I erred previously in my new member post and referred to him as my Mother-in-law’s uncle.  Roll Eyes
 
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Reply #6 - Oct 28th, 2019 at 7:54pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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I wanted a closer look at the nose art...It's fuzzy but I believe it's a skull in a Parson's collar and blk jacket with white wings on each side of the skull. Looks like there might be a lightening bolt through the backside of the art.
Sky9pilot
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #5 - Oct 28th, 2019 at 7:42pm

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

Posts: 11315
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I took the liberty of rotating the pics and labeling them, GF is Grandfather...I think the captured aircraft is a JU-88 and not a JU-87 Stuka...
Sky9pilot
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #4 - Oct 28th, 2019 at 4:53pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 25
 
Posting a few photos of the project plane. This is my Grandfather-in-law who was the mech on this plane kneeling behind his pilot after a mission. He is also holding the prop on the P51 and in the pilot’s seat of the B? Model. Also him with a captured JU88 short guy on the end. Hopefully I can do this justice as a remembrance of his service. The name of the P-38 was the Hells Apostle if anyone here has information on this particular plane
« Last Edit: Oct 28th, 2019 at 6:18pm by ibscrooge »  
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Reply #3 - Oct 26th, 2019 at 2:22pm

ibscrooge   Offline

I Love YaBB 2.5 AE!
Willard, MO.

Posts: 25
 
Thanks for the link got some good ideas to go on. Finished the inventory/kid in a candy store perusal of the contents and I was pleasantly surprised to find the kit was complete with only minor issues with the die-cutting. First decision has been made to go ahead and use the kit wood for the build. Plastic parts are in excellent shape and was happy to find no issues with the canopy at all! This is my first static build so forgive me if ask a lot of questions. So thankful I won’t have to purchase new wood and do the tedious job of tracing all those parts!!! So for my first question I need some input on whether it is better to sheet or to fill in between the formers and longerons and would sheeting change the fit to much of the plastic parts? ....So nice to know I am not the only one out here on the road sitting in a dock door and using the time to scratch the building itch! Cool
 
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Reply #2 - Oct 26th, 2019 at 11:27am

Sky9pilot   Offline
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Stick & Tissue
Kelso, WA 98626 USA

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Thymekiller, our site host is also an 18 wheeler and builds in his truck while on the road.  I look forward to this build.  We'll be eager to follow along and make suggestions as needed!  Keep her between the ditches!!!

Here's a link to Alfakilo's XP-38 build: XP-38 Click Here
Sky9pilot
 

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Reply #1 - Oct 26th, 2019 at 11:05am

alfakilo   Offline
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Retired USAF and TWA.
St Louis, MO

Posts: 1122
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This is a really big project!

Look in the forum 'Forgotten Projects' for the XP-38 Kit Bash thread. Disregard the changes made to convert to the XP version, the pics may give you some info on what the basic model looks like.
 
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