Hello John, and welcome to S&T. Do you have any photos of the Stinson in flight to share?

bob

I just joined Stick and Tissue today and was delighted to see the Stinson 105 tutorial. I built two examples from the plans and wish I had seen the tutorial first!  On the second version, I moved the rear peg forward two bays to improve c/g, used a Regal adjustable front end, and made the slot for the stab wider at the front to allow use of a shim for trimming (I glued the stab in only at the trailing edge). I use 1/8" rubber for outdoor flights and .100" or .105" for indoors.  I am amazed that the model flies so well with the "tiny" scale stab.

going to wally mart and get some tacky glue. Im not sure if this right place to ask a question? But here goes Im ready to cover a team himax nocal but not sure if the underside of the wing is covered. The airplane is being built from Vlare planes

Wrapped things up today.  Finished the windows with the cellophane wrapping.  Cut a complete panel for all the side windows using the plans as a pattern.  I cut it approximately 1/16 inch oversized and used white glue to place the window panes.  This glue dries clear and shows the detail below.

  Once the side windows were completed, I added the wing struts. The white tissue seems to be almost transparent on the solid balsa parts.  I don't know why the gluestick makes the tissue do this.  The struts are covered in the tissue on all sides.  I just cut a rectangle big enough to cover both struts on one side with approximately 1/8 border on the outside edges.  I then used the glue stick directly on the tissue as it laid on a piece of copy/printer paper.  Once the glue was applied I laid the struts on the tissue and split the tissue between the struts.  I then proceeded to wrap the tissue around the struts trimming the tissue so it didn't overlap the tissue from the other side of the strut.  Basically one piece wrapped completely around the strut.  Much easier to do than to type out the process.  I then used a pin to prick small holes thru the tissue to the balsa where the struts attach. Then I used thin cyano to attach the struts.

I found an old prop in the prop drawer, 5.5" diameter.  I think the usual formula for props is around 1/3 the wingspan of the model.  So this one is a bit oversized. I may have to make a replacement or cut this one down later.

Here's some pictures of the finished model.

Till thing warm up here, I'll be tossing her on the bed and see how she glides. Then we'll go from there.
So we'll call this a build and will update the flying later.
Tom

Time for confessions...do as I say and not as I do.  In my hurry to mockup the model I forgot to do the panel lines while the wings were off the fuselage etc.  Really makes using the Fine tip Sharpie panel lines easier!!!

So now that I've confessed, here's some pictures of the markings cut from printer paper from a picture from the net.  I'd usually print this on tissue and then cut out and mount, got lazy! .  On most models I would print on tissue.  I made the side stripe from red tissue cut with straight edge and applied with glue stick on the back of the stripe.  I lined it up first and then pressed in place with gentle pressure with my finger tip. 

I started to do the panel lines but the fingers were a bit shakey, too much coffee this morning. It was cold! 

Here's some shots of the markings....
Tom

Now to what I call the "Fiddly Bits", landing gear (struts gear/wing,main wheels, tail/nose wheel) and any rigging.

photo#1...I was able to use my olfa circle cutter to cut the lamination recess for the wheels in the wheel spats before adding the outside laminations cross grain for strength.

photo#2&3...Once the inner lamination were cut out, I then glued the outer laminations on the inner laminations, closing the spats.  I then clamped them together with large emery files on the outside to keep them from being crushed by the clamps.  I was a bit disappointed with the glue not setting up as fast as usual.  Must be the cold up here in the Pacific Northwest! So no sanding of the spats. 
On to the wheels...

photo#4...Using the Olfa circle cutter I cut discs for the wheels (four discs total) and laminated them cross grain. I used super glue for the additional stiffness it provides in the inner lamination and not having to wait another day to finish the wheels. Once the glue was set I used a nail file/emery board to round the edges of the discs. Being this is just a dime scale airplane I didn't spend a large amount of time on the wheels.  On larger models and more detailed builds I would turn them on a dremel tool or variable speed hand drill.  But that's for another build.  Here's a link to some fancy wheels done very well! reply #76 http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=14072.75

photo#4...Here's my wheels, I used broad tip Sharpie permanent pen black for the tires and on the tail wheel I used a silver felt marker to simulate the rear tail strut.  I used the circle cutter for cutting out circles for the wheel hubs from copy paper.

While waiting on  the spats to dry thoroughly I moved on to the main gear struts.  These were cut using the paper pattern from the plan and gluesticked to the balsa 1/16 sheet . Just remember there's a right one and a left one and the top of the strut is different front and back.  I covered the strut with tissue and sanded an angle on the top where it mounts to the lower longeron. I used super glue (cyano acrylic) to glue on the struts. I made sure to use a pin to prick some holes thru the tissue into the balsa longeron so the glue will have something to bite on to when the strut is glued to the longeron.

Now to wait on the spats for the glue to set up!  Then the axles through the spats wheels and mount to the main strut. Then add the cross braces.
Tom

Tissue application starting with the fuselage....

I must clarify that frequently I don't apply domestic tissue wet because of it's lack of strength.  Especially the tissue that I've purchased from The Dollar Store and other craft stores. It just tends to fall apart in your hands or when you pull on it to remove wrinkles.  So I usually apply it dry and pull out the wrinkles as I go working from one end to the other of the component. (fuselage or wing)

Hallmark Cards has some very good domestic tissue I've used their black and their purple.  Nice grain and strength. 

photo#1&2...Here we go with the fuselage.  I start on the bottom so that all the overlaps of tissue is facing down.  The seams are less visible later.  I use the regular white glue stick and I put it on the balsa wood liberally.  (A lot) because I want this to stick the tissue down and especially when the tissue is applied wet.  I did apply this tissue wet and it was very easy to tear it.  I used one strip to cover the bottom.  Make sure the grain of the tissue runs across the width of the fuselage, not the length. This will aid in the shrinking of the tissue to remove the wrinkles.

As you will see, the tissue went on ok but tore in a couple of places.  This is because of the looser grain than some other tissue.  It was applied wet and then I used a hair dryer to dry the tissue after it was securely stuck down caused it to pull apart. If left to air dry this might now have occured.

photo#3...My fix was to double cover the bottom nose area from the former under the cabin to the nose with a second sheet of tissue.  This was done by cutting a sheet of tissue the appropriate size allowing some hang over on the outer longeron. I applied glue stick on the back of the tissue and applied it directly to the dry tissue very carefully avoiding pushing too heavily as I smoothed it in place.

photo#4...One tear needed a patch over the second layer.  I cut an oval patch, you want to avoid corners in a patch they don't lay down and they seem to show more than rounded edges. Can you see the patch?

photo#5&6...Now we move to the sides of the fuselage.  I cut a strip from the tissue sheet after making sure the side of the fuselage will be covered with enough overlap, approximately 1/2 inch each way. The grain needs to run from top to the bottom. (my preference to tighten the tissue and eliminate wrinkles vertically)

I was able to use the other half of this strip for the other side of the fuselage. Once the side is applied I dried it with the hairdryer and then used a single edge razor to trim the excess tissue away from the fuselage.(this should be done with Adult supervision anytime a razor blade is used).  This takes time and trial and error to perfect. Don't trim to close to the wood, much better to add more glue stick and wrap it down.  It's different for each one.  I know that some wait for the tissue to dry completely and using fine sand paper sand the edge gently while pulling on the excess tissue. I prefer the single edge razor. Now because you've applied the gluestick liberally your razor will begin to collect the excess glue.  You'll need to clean your razor with alcohol because it dries on the razor dulling it and tearing the tissue.  I use my spritzer bottle sprayed on the paper towel to clean the razor.  Be very careful! and don't cut yourself cleaning the razor!!!
Now on to the wings...