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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one) (Read 27723 times)
Sky9pilot
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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #430 - May 28th, 2020 at 7:21pm
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Outstanding work Skyediamonds... using your hands and fingers you might want to consider those white cotton gloves that photographers use to handle negatives and slides.  Would give a nice smooth surface with less friction from bare fingers.
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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #429 - May 28th, 2020 at 7:11pm
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Good day to one and all.  Repeating what I've experimented on page 28 reply # 413, I applied FM to the top surface of the horizontal stab.  I started with the "usual" cutouts and carefully pulled down the ends of the foil over the edges for a sharp line. 

I've found that one of the better tools for burnishing are my own fingers.  I use the burnishing tool to help reach into areas that are difficult to reach such as the cutouts and for that final rub down along the edges.

To the untrained eye, the foil covering looks really neat.  That highly polished look really shows off the metal at its best.  However, looking closely at the tip and cutouts reveals the "soft" and wrinkly edges.  The soft edge along the cutout is a result of the foil being forced down over the soft balsa and the edges of the balsa has caved in.  Its just a tiny bit, but to me, it needed improvement. I could use basswood but that entails me having to start all over again and I had already progressed to this point and wanted to continue moving forward.  The tip was just due to the foil not being stretched out between the leading and trailing edges.  Several rub downs proved futile. I knew the answer to the tip would be just to be more diligent in paying attention to stretching out the foil, but the cutouts needed another approach without resorting to using basswoods. Solution?



  

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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #428 - May 20th, 2020 at 11:05pm
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Sky9, thank you for your reply.  Actually, to get the separate panel looks between one panel next to another, one only needs to use a fine grained sandpaper say around # 400-#600 went-n-dry.  Carefully rub it back and forth in the same direction.  This produces a fine grain, yet slightly dulled texture that is more realistic of the metal panels.  Then simply mount each panel 90 degrees in direction of the sanded surface to the other for that distinctive look.  They can be alternated, side-by-side, or any combination desired. 

To further heighten the differences between panels, and one that I've used, is to use a fine black ball point pen and with a ruler or any flexible straight edge, carefully line each panel one from the other.

The amount of texture is only up to the imagination of the modeler in his/her quest for simulated metal cover.
  
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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #427 - May 20th, 2020 at 10:44pm
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Looks like a bit of tape to tape off panels you want a bit duller finish to show different panels would be quite easy to achieve with this technique! Smiley
  

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Skyediamonds
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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #426 - May 20th, 2020 at 10:20pm
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Before I proceed further, I'd like to call to your attention about polishing and "working" the aluminum foil.  The process involves using a rubbing compound to help remove some of the oxidation from the surface of the foil and by working up a slurry, the aluminum is "worked" to the extent that it is both hardened and more flexible. 

This obviously lengthens the time involved in covering the model and it's really a personal judgment call.  The Flite Metal (or FM for short) is shipped in a roll and is already has that high mirror-like finish when arrived. 

This is somewhat a lengthy topic in itself and for now, outside the immediate scope of the building project but I thought you'd like to know.  I took the time to use a liquid 3M rubbing compound to help bring out an even greater shine to the surface in my quest for that super-highly polished look.

This picture shows the "before" look and "after" finish.  The small patch I'm holding in my hand shows both results.  The "before" look is on the upper left side and the "after" results are at the lower right side.  In the background is the FM as it comes off the roll. 

**Full disclosure:  the unfinished side still has some of that rubbing compound left on the surface and not completely rubbed off.  It really does arrive in a highly polished state.

The results of rubbing out are truly remarkable and much more apparent than what the photo shows.  It's just a "reflection" (pun intended) as to how far does the modeler wish to go.

In anticipation of your questions:  I took a section off the roll, taped both sides down over a large 1/4" plate glass that has been thoroughly cleaned and free of dust, scratches and anything that might affect the surface of the foil.  This section is, relatively speaking, large enough to cover say, the stab and portions of the elevator and to account for waste.  In my case, it was about 8 1/2 by say, 12" in width and length.

It was only after the surface was rubbed down and polished, that I would cut out a piece large enough to cover one portion of the model.

I should also venture to say that the foil covering (not just FM, but all types of metal coverings) must be handled with extreme care.  Just cutting a small section off the roll requires a deft hand to ensure that no wrinkles are induced.  Just like handling household aluminum foil, once a wrinkle is on the surface, it'll take an Act of Congress to get it out.  Scratches can be buffed out, but wrinkles are there forever. 


  

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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #425 - May 20th, 2020 at 9:48pm
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Good evening.  It's been awhile since I last posted.  So I had to go back a couple of pages and review what I last posted to catch up.  Insofar as I can tell, I'm now at the stage where the stabilizer and elevators are ready for covering. 

I've already experimented with a couple of faux pieces crudely representing the outlines of the hinge area to the stab/elevator and was able to determine how much clearance (actually guessing would be a better description) between the two flying surfaces at their hinge points.

I'm going to jump ahead of myself and present two photos: one is "before" and the other is "after."  My goals here are twofold; to illustrate what my objectives are in covering the surfaces with Flite Metal in my efforts to achieve a realistic look of natural metal and two, to show everyone on this site my visions for this whole model.

The next several posts will show step-by-step process in how I got to this stage. 

  

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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #424 - Apr 24th, 2020 at 9:05am
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To all our members...
Our Host has upgraded to a new server, unfortunately the new server doesn't want to recognize parts of our old YaBB OS (operating system) so we've lost access to some of the boards and can't post attachments at present.  Please be patient as we work out the gremlins.  Thanks for your patience.
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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #423 - Apr 23rd, 2020 at 2:27pm
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Nice to see you were able to post.  Has the site been having issues?
  

It's much easier to ride the horse in the direction its going.
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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #422 - Apr 22nd, 2020 at 5:29pm
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Wishing everyone well and in good spirits.
  
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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #421 - Apr 13th, 2020 at 10:02pm
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The theory here is for me to cover the elevator first.  This will have the tabs also covered and the foil will be folded over the edges. 

If the clearances are too tight, then I have the option of opening up the hinge at the stab by filing and sanding away some of the wood/mud where the tabs are positioned inside.

This will give some "flexibility" of determining how tight I'm allowed to go.

In the last picture, you can also see how tight the trim tab is on the elevator.  If the foil closes in too much around the trim tab, then just as with the elevator/stab, I'll file and sand away the opening enough to clear the trim tab.  The small paint marks on the elevator were sanded away....
  

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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #420 - Apr 13th, 2020 at 9:53pm
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The "mud" was sanded with a # 360 sand paper and ended with a # 400 to ensure it was as smooth as possible. 

The pictures show now most of the mud was sanded away leaving just a small amount over the strip.

If you zoom up on the third  photo, it shows I've got a little bit of sanding to do right at the inside of the hinge opening of the stab where the nose of the balance tab is.  It's just a tiny bit, but I wasn't going to take any chances.

Another quick shot of primer overall.

The end result at this point..... 

It's my intentions to pose the elevator in the down position, which means the balance tab will stick out a bit. This meant I also had to finish off the balance tab as well.   Gosh, if I wasn't so OCD'd about this, I could've save myself from a lot of extra work...... :: Tongue
  

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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #419 - Apr 13th, 2020 at 9:43pm
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After the plastic strip was super glued into place, the next steps I used Spackling Compound (or "mud") to help feather in the plastic strip into the stab. 

The masking tape was immediately removed before the "mud" had a chance to dry, thereby assuring a sharp line. 

The stab/mud was left overnight to dry.
  

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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #418 - Apr 13th, 2020 at 9:37pm
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In the first picture, I laid the  plastic strip over the trailing edge of the stab to give me a reference point to where I needed to cut off some of the top surface and still have some remaining plastic strip overhanging the edge.  This will allow me to recess the plastic strip into the stab and thereby "hide" it.

The following photos shows the step-by-step process I took to cut away the trailing edge to make room for the plastic strip.

  

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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #417 - Apr 13th, 2020 at 9:34pm
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Skye...your solution is just what I was thinking as I read the first part of your post.  I think with patience and going slow you won't have any problems.  I'm reminded of a saying I heard from some movie involving Navy Seals or Army Special Forces... "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast!"
  

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And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Re: Guillow's P-51D Mustang (yep, another one)
Reply #416 - Apr 13th, 2020 at 9:28pm
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Alrighty,

Now that I have a rough idea of how much clearance I have between the surfaces of the hinge lines, the next steps were to help "feather" over the elevator a bit with some overhang from the stab.

To effect this, I elected to cut out a thin plastic strip and blend it into the rear of the stab at the point where the leading edge of the elevator "hides." 

I'm a bit concerned here, as the thin strip might not be strong enough to support itself during the foil covering which requires me to use burnishing tools to smooth out the foil.  This could cause stress along the strip which could ultimately end up with the strip separating itself from the stab forcing me to start all over again.. 

So, my thoughts here are to hold a 1/4" squared strip of hardwood running underneath the plastic strip while I cover the stab with the foil.  The hardwood strip would act as an additional support until the covering is complete.  Only remaining issue here is when I have to tuck the foil under the strip.  This means I'll have to remove the hardwood strip. 

If worst comes to worst, I'll have to recover the trailing edge of the stab with a wider plastic strip, which should give itself a larger base of support.  Something I should've done in the first place, but I wanted to minimize any extra "feathering" work on the stab and alter its thickness.

Thoughts here, anyone?
  

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