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MKelly
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Re: A Better Product for Chalking Tissue
Reply #8 - Nov 16th, 2020 at 6:44pm
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Mark HH wrote on Nov 16th, 2020 at 6:16pm:
Maybe I'll try white paper with green artist chalk, then covered with the same green tissue as the rest of the model.


Chalk works well for that, or you can print a block of green on printer paper and cut the fillet out of that.  Most graphics programs will let you adjust transparency of a color - by playing with that a bit you can get the paper shaded to where it'll about disappear under the tissue.

Mike
  
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Mark HH
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Re: A Better Product for Chalking Tissue
Reply #7 - Nov 16th, 2020 at 6:16pm
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The yellow stripe on the fuse is just yellow Easy Built tissue, with yellow artist chalk on the back. It's a little washed out, but I think that works for this subject. I wonder now if the Pan Pastel white would make the yellow less transparent. I have yet to do the wing fillets. Maybe I'll try white paper with green artist chalk, then covered with the same green tissue as the rest of the model, like MKelly did. I'm too cheap to buy a bunch of Pan Pastel colors, but maybe I'll spring for the silver. I have one sheet of Esaki silver, and I'm afraid to use it. Maybe for peanut scale so it will do several models.
  
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Re: A Better Product for Chalking Tissue
Reply #6 - Nov 16th, 2020 at 7:58am
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Mark - Your work with the pastels is amazing in that the color is dense and very clear. Nice work and I'll have to try these pastels'
Mike
  

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MKelly
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Re: A Better Product for Chalking Tissue
Reply #5 - Nov 15th, 2020 at 11:23am
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The markings on your -109 came out very nicely.

I've played around with the PanPastel metallics a bit - haven't attempted to do tissue for an entire model with them.  I've used them to shade white bond paper (on fillets etc) before covering with silver Esaki - this does a lot to keep the white paper from standing out from the rest of the structure (see pic of the landing gear fairings on my Sparrowhawk.  The gold, bronze and copper PanPastels are also quite useful for shading exhausts or other burnt metal areas.

This morning I spread some of the bright silver Panpastel over scraps of white and black Esaki tissue (see second pic).  The center of each sample is bare tissue, the ends were chalked, with the outermost portion chalked on both sides.  I put the scraps halfway over a sheet of white paper so you could assess opacity after chalking.  Note that these samples have not been doped or sealed in any way, just the pastel on raw tissue.

I think for getting a nice silver finish you'd be best off chalking the black tissue rather than the white, and you'll get a denser silver finish if the pastel is applied on the dull side of the tissue.

Mike
  

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PanPastel_Silver_on_Black_and_White_Esaki.JPG
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Sky9pilot
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Re: A Better Product for Chalking Tissue
Reply #4 - Nov 14th, 2020 at 3:50pm
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Tremendous results!!!† Haven't tried the metallics! Let us know if you do!
  

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Mark HH
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Re: A Better Product for Chalking Tissue
Reply #3 - Nov 14th, 2020 at 1:09pm
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I tried this on my Guillows 505 BF-109 for the markings. The model is covered with EB green tissue. White tissue disappears over the green if you don't mitigate the transparency. I ink-jet'd the markings on white tissue, then rubbed white Pan Pastel on the back, and then a coat of dope applied to the front. Then I cut them out and doped them onto the model. The white Pan Pastel also makes the other colors in the markings brighter.
Has anyone experimented with the Pan Pastel metallic colors? Could you turn white Esaki into an aluminum color with this method?
  

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MKelly
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Re: A Better Product for Chalking Tissue
Reply #2 - Sep 6th, 2020 at 3:43pm
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Thanks - there's pictures of the finished model in my hangar here on S&T.

Mike
  
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Romeo_Delta
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Re: A Better Product for Chalking Tissue
Reply #1 - Sep 5th, 2020 at 7:19pm
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Itís ridiculous how good this looks.
  
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MKelly
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A Better Product for Chalking Tissue
May 18th, 2020 at 8:44pm
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At Scot Dobberfuhl's suggestion I've been experimenting with PanPastel artist's chalks. They are fantastic - very soft, and pre-ground very fine. A couple of swipes with a makeup sponge gives a very dense, even coat on the tissue. See pics of my Walt Mooney Keleher Lark for comparison of chalked and bare tissue - really brightens up the model and makes the printing stand out.

On this model I also applied fillercoat (Sig Sanding Sealer liberally thinned and dosed with talcum powder) over all the sheet surfaces.  At the cost of about half a gram of weight and some sanding time it gave a very smooth nearly white surface.  Made covering the sheeted areas easier, reduced visibility of the woodgrain through the tissue and helped the chalk give a nice bright white look on the model.

Mike
  

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0518_PanPastel_Chalking_Comparison.JPG
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0518_Noseblock_Covered_Left_Front.JPG
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0518_Noseblock_Covered_Right_Front_Low.JPG
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