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Normal Topic Glue advice. (Read 684 times)
Sky9pilot
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Re: Glue advice.
Reply #4 - Jan 13th, 2021 at 6:23pm
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This Topic was moved here from General Questions [move by] Sky9pilot.
  

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MKelly
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Re: Glue advice.
Reply #3 - Jan 8th, 2021 at 1:36pm
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TRGT,

A suggestion - make your canopy frames from ordinary printer paper, covered with tissue if desired.  Examples in post #499 here: 

https://www.stickandtissue.com/forum/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1583285154/495

and post #19 here:

https://www.stickandtissue.com/forum/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1529541585/15

Another example below.

Here's how I approach it:
- tape canopy in place on model
- wrap scrap tissue over the canopy and trace the framing, may have to do this in sections (windscreen, sliding portion of canopy)
- lay the tissue template flat, clean up the lines using a ruler, check it back on the model to make sure everything is in the right place (you can also scan the tissue template into your computer and use a graphics program to draw the framing)
- tape the template over a sheet of printer paper and cut out the frames
- cover the frames with tissue or paint them to match your model (I spray the frames with spray adhesive, lay tissue over them, then cut out the edges and window areas)
- shape the frames to fit over the canopy (I just roll any curves over a pencil or X-Acto handle)
- glue the frames down using thinned canopy glue
- use a toothpick or damp swab to clean up any excess canopy glue or smears.

Using a canopy glue such as Micro Krystal Klear (available at most plastic model shops or Amazon) you can easily bond the paper to the clear canopy.  I thin the Krystal Klear about 50/50 with water and brush it on using a small paintbrush.  With this technique you can make the framing match your tissue covering perfectly, and the paper frames are much easier to tweak to lay down nicely on the canopy than stiffer plastic would be.  The canopy glue can work for plastic-to-plastic (depending on the types of plastic involved) if you decide to go that route.

Hope this helps

Mike
  

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Re: Glue advice.
Reply #2 - Jan 8th, 2021 at 9:58am
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The canopy is the one included in the kit, the frame will be taken from the scrap styrene(?) trimmed from around the drop tank. I started to use canopy glue on the first attempt but it was taking a long time to dry, longer than 3  hours it seemed.
I sanded the canopy in the frame area and the scrap styrene thinking there'll be a better bite. But before I spend the time lining up the pieces again I want to cover my bases by researching if there's a better way.
  
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Re: Glue advice.
Reply #1 - Jan 7th, 2021 at 7:00pm
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A couple questions to clarify:
1. Are you gluing to a clear canopy already formed?  If gluing to a clear canopy the "560" types should work fine without clouding the clear parts of the canopy.
2. If you're making a canopy framework to mount to the fuselage that clear panels will be added to later?  This will allow you to use a glue that you don't have to worry about the clear canopy parts.  An acetone based glue or even Cyanoacrylic glue would work.  The Cyanoacrylic won't really meld the plastic together it just forms a hard acrylic connection that might break loose later if bumped or flexed.  The acetone based like Duco will melt the plastic of each piece being joined. Making a stronger joint.
3. Is the scrap plastic clear or white from the cowling and scoops material? If you need the plastic to remain clear, don't use Cyano it will cloud the clear parts if you aren't very careful!
I'd test it on scrap plastic first before using any glue!!
  

If God is your Co-pilot...switch seats...
Your attitude will determine your altitude!- John Maxwell
And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free. Jn 8:32
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Glue advice.
Jan 7th, 2021 at 11:04am
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I've revisited a Guillow's P 47 kit and want to use some of the plastic scrap to form the canopy frame, which glue would work best. I'm thinking canopy glue but not sure of the plastic to plastic adherence.
TIA.
  
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