Congrats Eric Looks good....and It's your first cookup, and heck who cares how look it took, I have not even cut the wood for mine yet  Cookups last as long as people are still building.   jeff

thymekiller wrote on Oct 27^th, 2008 at 7:19am:
   But I'm not funny.

Drum roll Please...........TA-DA!!!!!! The crowd goes wild!!!

It is done. Complete. And it only took me 6 months! Thats o.k. I know a cookup is not a race. AND I have a big handful of really cool excuses.   I only need to make a motor and try it. NO chance of flying outside any time this week. My smarter half has all manor of dangley things hanging on the front porch.[they are all wind socks to me] The wind has got them nearly straight out. Its 31 degrees outside. Will post a vid as soon as I can but dont hold your breath.  For now , it will get a portable home and wait for its day in the sun.
I want to thank my mom and dad for surporting me in my dreams and I want to thank my agent and my road crew.....
No kidding, I really do want to thank everybody who helped me build what is easly the most fragile thing I have ever constructed in my life.
This is my first cookup. [I', sure you can tell] It was great fun. As I look back over the thread, It seems like all the info is there from several angles. Anybody could read the thread and shouldnt have any problem building one. I have not read fully any other cookups, [dont know why not] but now i see them in a different lite. Hooray for us!!

eric

ps    Michael, just a suggestion, but, when your being funny, use one of these;    That way the "special" kid knows its a joke.   Also, in case your thinking about it, you might want to hold on to that day job just a little longer..... 

  Sorry, perhaps I mislead. I'm in springfield missouri. Last year we moved from corpus crispy. Corpus is a decent town but its too hot and they dont have foliage that blooms and dosent hurt.The wind never stops. I think all the plants and animals down there sting or bite. As far as plants there is no change in the seasons. We have video of a christmas snow. Truley. On the bay. Happens once every 100 years. Got 6 inches and it was gone the next day or so.
  Theres a fantastic private air and war musem in kingsville. [ near seguin] They have MANY full scale replicas of some pretty old stuff and they fly them. Last I heard the "newest" thing they had was a fokker tri-wing. I was gonna volunteer, but life got in the way. I think they stick with ww1 stuff.  They set up an army camp and dress up and invite the public once a year. They have jeeps, ambulance,a medic tent, mess tent, guns all kinds of stuff. I'm sure Duco Guru could give you all the info on it. Close to San Antonio if you google it.
  If you get to dallas, I hear theres a real p-40 that flyies at one of the airports.  Dont know if its still there. Hopeing to find out for sure around christmas.
Oh, I meant a gym to fly in. I'm allergic to working out, as you can plainly see.
eric                                                                                                                        

thymekiller wrote on Oct 26^th, 2008 at 9:35am:
   Every bit. "Try it and see," means just exactly that.
   I've always been frustrated by some guy on a Forum reacting so someone's model with "It won't work that way, just tweak this tip and so&so the badonkadonk, wind to 1500 and let go, there, all you need to know." --And what do you really know, but one special case?
   I've always told guys to build cheep test models for anything they want to do outside the conventional, but it's also a darn good idea for the conventional--a One Nite 20 with everything rubberbanded on, you can play with incidences and all manner of stuff and see the result. Extra wings, no tail, multiple vitamins, whatever. I hardly ever follow my own advice, by the way.
Quote:
   Yah, my friends have been trying with me for years. And look at me. Gawd.
   Michael

thymekiller wrote on Oct 26^th, 2008 at 8:21am:
  I give it maybe 5/16"-3/8" clearance from side of tube to motor C/L, that's good enough for a bunchy 3/32" loop. I'll set the tube with the hook & bearing angled so the motor's running about that same distance from the model's frame and the thrust C/L running through the model C/L.
  Careful lining up--maybe&maybenot. This may be one of those things we overworry while missing something big like getting the model set up straight. The important part is, keep what you can of the motor as low as possible; but don't make for extra bearing-bending to do it. Extreme thrust offsets in short bearings make friction and power loss, but we often forget that, and it's not real relevant in NoCals anyway. Three-four degrees can be handled by the nice Czech front end.
Quote:
  Well--that's what most of Duration has gone to, and it works there because you have no fuselage requirements to live up to.
  Putting a motor tube inside a fuselage means one more structure to add weight. Okay, but you make the fuselage of lighter stuff to compensate? Well, but then how do you work up hardpoints to hang wings & tail on? And how to keep your thumb from going through the fragile structure?
  It's been tried before. Try it, you may find the answer; but stick & tissue has evolved into a pretty good structure now called "traditional" that guys know and are used to building with, which makes building easy for them--they don't have to reinvent structure with every new model. You may find a new way, or learn something useful if you don't.
  Stick & tissue structure uses balsa in its strongest mode--compressibility--held in position by tissue in tension mode, which traditionally means shrunk (for tension) and doped (to set the tissue in a matrix, much like epoxy does with limp fiberglass). This is why guys who pre-shrink or don't dope (or Krylon or whatever) often end up with floppy, fragile models, unless they modify their framework for more rigidity; which often means adding weight over the old good way. Notice, the magic film coverings are often springy, and the Duration guys who use them also are using CF torque tubes or D-tube wings to take up the flop. Then, there's the film/tissue sandwich, which just makes me wonder why?
  We keep looking for some silver bullet to the win, and in the meantime these old geezers keep building their old models and winning, by the experience gained in doing the same thing over and over 'til they get it down GOOD.
  It's all a trade-off. Y'find your own best way.
  Michael

  Cool. A notch arcross the top to nest into would be a good plan. Hadnt thought of that. The glue in the center and on top is ca. School glue holds the blocks in the tube. If it doesent work I can soak and remove the ends or just make a new one.  Now that I have the knowledge to do so its easy.
I,m not setting any records with this one becuase the tissiue is kinda special to me. I will wind it lightly and if it flys or not I will save it. There are many profile planes that I can max out. I will probly "kit" a few and build them all at once. With purpous built jigs it would be a snap to make a bunch of them and stock them while working on other stuff.
I robbed the wire from a guillows kit. I need to get better wire. Should be easy where I live. What I have is indeed stiff, but you only get one shot at big bends. After that it snaps. Again, I will test wind before attaching to the plane. 
Curious about how far away from the tube is best. I was careful to align where the rubber will attach so that the rubber is parallel to the stick. Does that make any real differance?  Does thrust setting cancel that notion out? Thrust setting will be easy with the wire holder.
  One more. What if a person put the rubber INSIDE the tube? Would the tube need to be so big that a stick/box frame would weigh less?
Thanks for the help.

eric