Tried to trim and glide the Dorastonian two days ago.  The original cowling, even though sanded and cut away to lighten was not enough.  It required way too much weight on the tail to balance so I'll be making the second prototype with the modified cowling to see how it goes!  I'm really bummed that I made the cowling so heavy!  I'll start over with a complete build because I crushed the left wing panel leading edge! I'll see what can be salvaged from the first prototype!

Tom

Finally got the plug finished for the canopy and was able to plunge mould the canopy from some plastic cookie top container from the bakery dept of the local supermarket.  Worked pretty well.

Here's some pics of it being installed with Aleene's Tacky Glue.  (This glue is pretty good for canopies because it's fairly thick and holds the plastic well and dries clear.)

Tom

If you go to and art supply store you will find they have acrylic ink for air brushes.  It's a bit more expensive than the acrylic paint, but is already prepared for air brushing.  The ink is much lighter than the paint, and is available in opaque, translucent, day-glo, and metallic colors.

I have several years of experience with airbrushing acrylics.  I prefer the ink, but have used the paint successfully. The craft store acrylics are meant for brushing and have very coarse solids in their pigments.  They can be thinned successfully, using water, surface tension reducer (airbrush medium), and, sometimes, a little rubbing alcohol.  They seem to work better using an external mix airbrush at a somewhat higher pressure (30 p.s.i.). 

With my internal mix airbrushes I have had much better results using Testor's Acryl or the Tamaya colors. They come brushing consistency, but have finer pigments and require much less thinning to airbrush.  If you are working on a real scale model you will find the Testor's and Tamaya colors are more authentic.

I do use Krylon before spraying colors.  Krylon #1305 is an acrylic and is completely compatible with the paint and ink.  The trick is to mist it on the tissue and not get a too heavy coat.  The acrylics carry a very heavy load of water so the tissue will sag even though it has been fixed with the Krylon.  When the paint or ink dries, the tissue will be just as tight as before.  This makes it very important that you let each color thoroughly dry before spraying the next color.  This is extremely important if you freehand a camo job.  If there is any dampness in the previous color the slight sag will pick up the over spray from the next color and when it all dries there will be painted on wrinkles even though the tissue is tight as a drum head.

I have used airbrushing frisket sheets as masking, but Orv Olm suggested that I use domestic tissue sprayed with a couple of coats of Krylon and stuck down with repositionable glue stick and it works quite well.  Some other modellers have told me that they have had excellent results using the new Frog Tape for delicate surfaces.

Hope this helps.

Tom, I've read a bit in Don Ross' book about Bostonians. Modeling the long nose fw190D instead of the more common A was a smart move with the squished layout of a Bostonian. Your model is downright long and sleek compared to a Gee Bee. I've several plans for classic models like FA Moths, Aeroncas, Citabrias, and the P51 you mentioned that were modified into Bostonians. It's given me an idea for a model called the Boston Senator. The plan is an old family secret that you tissue-cover with dirty money and shrink with a mixture of Scotch and the murky waters surrounding Chappaquiddick Island. For a small 'campaign contribution' I'll share the plan with you.

Tom: nice job with EGG 190, how is the canopy coming? I am still divided on what to do on the camo for my Maryland and your spray on camo may help me out, how much weight does it add?

Bob

I'm fascinated by people like you that can design new models. The whimsical cartoonish nature of this has a charm all of its own. I can't help but think that all the popular and famous models were first just an idea in someone's head,  then ink on paper,  pins on a building board,  and balsa in the sky.  Very impressive.

Thanks Terry...
Tom

Dorastonian in camo and starting of markings. Here's the latest progress. I'm beginning to enjoy using this acrylic craft paint.  Hardly any weight and looks pretty good.  Still going to get some airbrush medium, suppose to help in flow and keep the needle from clogging.

Tom