First, thanks for the advice on the landing gear wire.  I always appreciate everyone's help.

Great weekend!!!  Sunny, rainy, windy fun in Oregon which allowed me a bit of time to stay inside and build.

The cheek cowls came together nicely.   They aren't perfect and still need work, but I have them pretty close.  I also cut and carved up the chin scope which was fun.  The canopy plug is looking good and I'm working layers of primer/filler and sanding to get it smooth.  Also, I made the spinner.  I came out pretty well.  I have it hollowed out about 3/8th inch deep but need to go a bit more.  Then the fun of cutting and fitting the side slits - any advice there???  I have not discovered an easy way to do  this other than going slow and carving bit by bit.  I'm currently fitting to the 4.75 prop per advice here.

More picture and updates soon.

Brad

Looking very good.  When I used to build rc (always lower case, as Pete says) models, I'd often just build the outline of cheeks like that with thick balsa strips forming a box that could be sanded to shape leaving the interior hollow.  Just easier than using a chunk of balsa that would have to be hollowed out later.  But with a Free Flight (always Capitalized) model you'll probably need some weight up there anyway! 

Keep up the great work.
Sky9pilot

Skypilot, thanks for letting me know about checking the plans.  I completely understand how distortions can occur.  I've always loved old school drafting (T-squres/triangles) so I look forward to a little time confirming future plans before diving in.

I happily got to start carving last night.  I got the top laminates carved to fit and glued in place on the main cowl block.  I also started to carve the canopy plug and it's taking shape nicely.  I forget how much I do enjoy actual carving and shaping.  I also got the lower intake cut out and some of the front nose block started.

Question for everyone:  what size piano wire do you use for your landing gear?  The wire I used is quite thin and bouncy, although it does hold it's shape.  I honestly don't know what thickness it is but it seem one size to light.  And were do you find your piano wire?

Brad

Thank you for the advice on the dihedral and encouragement with the cheek cowls!!.  Currently I am at about 1/4 inch at each tip once I pull the base rib tight to the fuselage.  I'll add a half rib shim of 1/32 balsa and sand to get a bit more dihedral when completed.

I got a fun package yesterday from Peck Polymers.  Lots of props, wheels and pin clamps (I'm going to give them a try).  I also got an assortment of Japanese tissue - it's always nice to have choices.

Thanks for the advice on the tail Staubkorb.  I'm going to enlarge the tail fin slightly from the scale outline.  The photo shows my plan - just a bit larger.  I've never thought of needing to check plans for accuracy, but Miss Dara is teaching me otherwise.  I would call the plans 'loose'.

I finally have a plan of attack and made progress on the cheek cowls.  I messed around with cutting several nose and side formers and trying to get them aligned etc. and it just was not coming together in a neat and tidy fashion.  So I dug into my stock of balsa and now have two nice 1/2 inch balsa base elements.  I will add 1/8 to 3/16th additional top and bottom for center cowl thickness and then cut them to the side contour.   I'm really happy with the fit and alignment so far.  I'm also very pleased to find that there will not be many difficult compound curves to match them to the fuselage.  They are positioned on a fairly flat area!!!  Once shaped and fitted I'll hollow them out and cut the front intake openings.

Curiosity got the better of me, so I downloaded the plan and did some measuring.  The first thing I noticed was that there is a discrepancy with the symmetry of the stab and a very slight one in the wing panel span.

Another is the shape of the ribs - they all show a slight reflex, which might serve as a stability aid.  Did you cut your ribs with a perfectly flat bottom?

The stab area, as drawn, is approx 24% of the wing area, so theoretically it should be OK.  The vert. stab, however, might be a bit small.

I may be all wet, especially if Willis got his to fly, as drawn, successfully.

Brad,
She's a beauty.  Keep up the great work.  Glad the wings went on so well.  Do you have any dihedral in those wings?  I highly recommend some dihedral.  You want the tips to be at least a smidge above the thrust line if not even with the bottom of the canopy.  Free Flight models need this dihedral for stability in flight.
Sky9pilot

I put on the side stringers, bottom formers and stringers and did a little shaping around the cockpit opening.  I'm really happy with how everything turned out.  I also did the initial shaping of the wheel pants which are looking good.   

I am finding myself doing everything I can to avoid starting the cheek cowls - ha.  Once I start I'll be fine.  It's just getting those first forms sized and cut to shape and figuring out the nose block configuration that's holding me up.  It's coming together in my head so I know I'm getting close to taking the leap.

Brad