Before I forget.... apparently there has been a formula change with spackle that includes a type of poly which makes it hard to sand so since this is going to be display only felt that the good old heavy weight spackle will work just as well and one can still sand that version.

Ditto what Skyediamonds said!

Thank you for the photos and am considering this course for main wing but am going to continue with infill for the pod and booms. Ran into an issue where the dihedral and slight concave curvature on the underside of the main wing will require some shim work to create a good fit. Sorry about the lengthy time between posts. I haven't stopped the build but did take some time away on a family matter. I will be posting more photos as well. Apparently the photos I had previously taken on the boom construction have mysteriously disappeared from my phone. I apologize letting my 2 1/2 year-old play with my phone lol🤦🏻‍♂️!

ib:

Very valid questions.  Shows you're thinking two or three steps ahead of the build.  This is exactly the correct (& mind-numbing) thing to do whenever you're building "outside of the box."   Really impressed!!  This is where a lot of thinking (agonizing) goes on.  Ask me.

From my perspective, you've already (did a masterful job) of framing up the wings.  You're now at the decision point as to which way to cover.  Should you go the tissue route or use something more solid that will give off a realistic look as opposed to a skeletal appearance.

You have a number of options:

You can infill, but that's a lot of work and sanding, then filling in with a compound between the gaps and grains, then priming, and the list goes on.

The other option is to do what I'm doing with my Mustang project and sheet using thin sheets of glossy paper with a thin laminate of plastic instead of balsa wood.  The paper/plastic will be thin enough to mitigate the potential fit issues (not  completely, but enough to make it easier).  The "paplastic" also saves you lots of hassles of sanding and fitting because its already very thin.  It's also smooth & ready to paint.  You only need to scribe panel lines with a black ball point pen.  If you're so inclined to go a bit more in the detailing route, you can use a "pounce wheel" for making simulated rivets.  The pounce wheel is a small hand-held tool that sort of looks like a really bad pizza cutter.  See the enclosed photo

This "paplastic" sheet is what you see as "plate matts" on top of a desk in say, a bank, or restaurant displaying bank services or menu.  It's around, you just have to look. 

Prior to installing the "paplastic" sheets:  carefully cut them to the exact size needed to fit that section of the wing panel.  Instead of sanding down the balsa leading edge smooth, allow the leading edge to "stick" out above the rib outlines to account for the plastic thickness.  If you've already sanded down the leading edge, that's okay.  Just carefully sand down the ribs at the part where they butt up against the balsa leading edge.  This sanding down of the ribs only needs to go back about 1/2" from the leading edge, so you don't have to sand the whole ribs.  Because the plastic sheet is so thin, you only need to gently "touch" sand the ribs.  It doesn't  take much to lower the rib profiles enough to compensate for the plastic "skin."  Butt against the leading edge with the plastic sheet (or you can use laminated glossy paper instead of plastic) and feather out the sheets along the trailing edge. 

The thin sheets of plastic can come in large sizes.  They're easily obtained from local arts and crafts stores.  I don't know if Wal Mart has them. 

The only "hard part" is carefully fitting the plastic to the exact size and outline of that particular wing panel section.  In this case, you can use sheets of scrap paper.  You may end up using several "templates" until you get it just right.  Then simply trace the outline to the plastic.  I've enclosed a "few" sample pictures of my efforts  of covering the wing.  In this case, a practice wing section but you get the idea.  The silver paint was used to help determine how it contrasted with Flite Metal.  You don't have to use the foil

Once the plastic sheet has been cut and carefully trial-fitted to the exact size of the wing panel, use a ruler or straight edge and black ball point pen for the simulated paneling.  Gently press down on the plastic for that "depth" look.  You may wish to practice on some scrap first.

From there, you can either install the plastic sheet "as is" or add some rivet detail as described.  For the paneling and riveting detail, you'll need some reference photos, drawings or a small plastic model to help you determine where the paneling outlines go.  It's  only after you've finished pressing down with the ball point pen and/or pressing down with the pounce wheel, should you then glue the plastic sheet to the frame.  To do all of this pressing down while it's  on the frame will risk breaking the balsa frame.

Getting back to the balsa sheeting.  For the outer panels, you can sheet as usual.  Just use some Spackling Compound to help feather in the plastic sections to the wing.  You can sand down the panel sheet, but be careful.  Most likely you won't know how far you've gone down until its too late and the ribs start peeking through.

For the tail feathers, I'm using solid 1/4" balsa for my Mustang, so it's just a matter of personal choice.  The added thickness to account for the airfoil in the middle and its tapered toward the leading & trailing edge

I know I've mentioned this sheeting method before, but since you're already going "outside the box" with the sheeting, I'm thinking you might as well make it as easy and convenient as possible with less sanding, filling, sanding, priming, etc., prior to paint

ib:
Beautiful set of wings!  If you're sheeting, let me know if you need any suggestions,  otherwise I'll just sit back and relax and enjoy the show.

You've done great!

If it'll help any, you're doing a great job on the detailing of the cockpit interior and really impressive nose gear.  Couldn't do better myself.

Skye

I do have a dremel but currently it is residing somewhere in the depths of my garage without the needed cutoff wheel as I seem to have lost all the accessories somewhere. Thank you for reminding me about the dremel though I completely forgot I had one!! Note to self.....start regimen of ginkgo biloba!!