5474     Test fitting of the "angled" Root Rib, to the inward edges of the LE and TE, and test fitted with the top of the rib to the doubled Spar Stinger.

5481    Close up of the test fit of the "angled" Root Rib.

5482     Test fit with the square, vertical, blocking face, that is aligned to the building board Grid Lines.

Looks like you're making great progress.  What will you use to set the angle of the rib? 

I usually pin the root of the wing to the board using the L.E. and T.E. and then lift the tip to the proper dihedral.  I then use a right triangle to hold the root rib vertical and glue it in place.  This give me the proper angle on the rib for placement on the fuselage/wing center section.

Just a thought.
Tom

     This will leave enough of the Top of rib doubled Spar sticking past the "Strengthening support Rib", to fit into a top-of-rib notch on the "angled" innermost root rib yet to be installed.

     The wing is now clamped down flat to the building board, in order to glue in an 'extra' vertical "strengthening support rib" , before gluing on the angled rib for dihedral.   I carved up some extra ribs to practice on.  I eventually made this "strengthening support rib" (closest flat rib to the wing), to be located flat to the table, and glued on the inner side near the bottom, up against what is left of the remaining  1/8"  X 1/16"  inner wing bottom plate, that I cut through with a razor saw, to remove the left wing from the center section of the plane, near the inward wing root rib.

Dust cart - OH NO - I missed your reply    , and I cut off the wing first thing this morning.  That was in the back of my mind to just glue on the strut arms with locator tooth pic points ,  locating the attach points in the same spots, and I thought it would be under too much bending stress      - I didn't think about  "carefully flood the root rib/fuselage joint with acetone using a small brush (you don't want to let too much saturation of the surrounding areas) and let it sit.  A few applications might be necessary, depending on how much glue was used in the joint."   I could have tried that ...     , and if it didn't work, then cut off the wing - I don't know how I missed your response DUH!! 
      Thanks so much for the tip - it would have been interesting to see how it worked out.  Too late now ...   
I have calculated the degree angle for an angle plate for mounting my root rib to the wing.   If I stick this wing root rib onto the fuse side, it should raise the wing to the correct dihedral.  I am also considering using tooth pic point locators for the wing root ( never done that before ... ).   Now I am wondering if I should also use little tooth pic point locators for the strut attachment points also - I can see the exact points where the strut was attached to. I am just wondering what would now be the best way to do it - all at once ?  I am still open to any and all suggestions ... thanks guys 

LWM

No - it is not recessed - had to sleep on that one.  Mike I can cut the wing off flat to the root rib    - I just had to look at it more ...     Thanks for the good tips.
LWM

LWM - taking off the wing may be your best bet here.  Rather than doubling up the root rib and sanding angles, go back to your plans and make an angle plate matching the dihedral angle and use that to set the angle of the new root rib when gluing it in.

Another advantage to taking the wing off is that your can cover it off the model, pinning it down to keep it flat during shrinking and doping.  You'll want to make sure you get a good solid join when putting the wing back on, and pay attention to keeping the incidence of the left and right wings identical - may want to consider a couple of short locating pins in the root rib.

Hope this helps,

Mike