Mike I print my plans on my printer then tape them together. I also so use the printer to either print more pages or just to copy those parts so I do not cut up the plans.

Glad to hear that Richard and I were of help

Bob

Hi Mike.  Here's my two cents.  I cut the inside curves of a   1/16"  balsa part on my not too "self-healilng" anymore, "Cutting Mat".   I sort of block up the part solid, with other bigger   1/16"   scrap balsa pieces around the sides of the part, to support the steel ruler  (I cut them to shape to fit roughly, a little bit, to hold the part), then I  get out the   12"   steel ruler, and I cut along in tiny little   1-2mm   increments, by just pressing straight down on the angled tip of the #11 Exacto blade, point first, and after cutting each little increment, I always slightly move the steel ruler each time - which can be done quickly with practise, and then I line up the next little increment with the steel ruler, and press down on the knife for the next increment cut, over and over.  You can get pretty fast at this.   When done, the part is not cut all of the way through, so I then lightly trace the cut slot through carefully, a few times with the exacto knife, by using the steel ruler.  It results in a very fine, ever so slightly, evenly jagged edge, leaving very little left to sand, by using sandpaper around a  1"   diameter dowel.  And I always, as 'terryman' said, cut away from the grain, and not in towards the grain, cut away from the grain towards the "safe" side away from the part.  You get the hang of that pretty quick also when you cut out a set of ribs from a "Printwood" kit parts sheet of balsa wood.
     One hundred #11 Exacto blades costs $25 =   25 cents per blade - CHEAP!  I go through at least 3 blades per model.
LWM
Richard

OK! Mike you now have to post some photos of that build please.

Bob

Quote:

Terry - I have been using an "EZE-LAP diamond hone I got from Lee Valley. The grit is labeled "Super Fine" and is 1200 grit (pn - 70M02.30). I use it to touch up my #11 xacto and scalpel blades and works fine, however it does, over time, change the blade from hollow ground to flat ground. I change the blade when it seems I'm honing instead of cutting. I also retrieved my cutting mat and have it at hand however I'm finding the self-healing quality a bit dubious.
Mike

Terry, it is nice to hear from you and your tips are what Ive been following my self.

Bob

Mike, there is not any numbered way to cut out parts. The point was to let the blade cut not your hand, patience is the key.

Mike, here are the photos of how I cut balsa formers. Hope this helps. THESE ARE JUST TEST WOOD AND FORMER

1. the test former pattern cut from sheet.


2. the former pattern and some "B" grain medium to hard wood. Grain facing north to south.


3. former pattern face down and the glue stick (any glue stick will do the trick)


4. glue applied to back side of former (you will need to test how much glue to apply on scrap wood to see how much it will take to keep the pattern on the wood and not actually glue it to the wood).


5. pattern pressed onto the wood facing north to south with the grain.


6. in the shot I cut the former from the wood sheet.


7. as if you are drawing the inside of the former like Pete stated, just follow the line of the inside of the former (NOT HARD LET THE BLADE CUT PAPER ONLY). Now follow the line for several passes with each pass let the blade cut a little more with gradual pressure. It is easiest with the grain and cross grain is tough, but let the blade do the cutting.


8. After several passes (there is no set number) the center of the former should fall out of the wood.